Cam Bearing Set

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Cam Bearing Set
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Offset means what?

Offset is normally stamped or engraved into the wheel and is measured in millimeters of ET: ET is the short form of the German word Einpresstiefe which translates as insertion depth.

Offset is the distance between the hub mounting face at the back of the wheel and the wheel's centerline.

Negative Offset wheels have their mounting face toward the rear of the wheel - powerful rear-wheel drive cars often have wheels with negative offset.

Zero Offset wheels have their mounting face even with the centerline of the wheel and are by definition ET0.

Positive Offset wheels have their mounting face toward the front face of the wheel. Front wheel drive vehicles usually have positive ET wheels. Eighties & Nineties Volkswagen wheels are generally ET38.

PCD means what?

PCD stands for pitch circle diameter and is the diameter of a circle drawn through the centre of your wheel's bolt holes. P.C.D. is measured in millimeters and also indicate the number of studs or bolts the wheel will have. Volkswagen Alloy Wheels are usually either 4x100: i.e. 4 bolt holes drilled through the centre of an imaginary 100mm circle, or 5x100: for VR6s, GTis and MK4s.

Center bore means what?

The center bore of an alloy wheel is the size of the hole at the back of the wheel which the hub fits into. To help the wheels to seat properly this hole needs to be an exact match to the size of the hub.

Most modern wheels are what's called hub-centric. This means that the hub which protrudes from your car, and mates with the equivalent sized hole at the back of your wheel, is load bearing. All that the studs or bolts do is holding the wheel onto the hub.

If you have lug-centric wheels, the state of your studs or bolts is obviously more important - be sure to replace these from time to time and always 3/4 tighten the wheels off the car to make sure they're centered.

Plus-Sizing and Up-Stepping means what?

Plus-Sizing or Up-Stepping are two terms given to the practice of rising the diameter of your wheels whilst at the same time reducing the profile of your tires to keep the overall rolling radius the same.

Benefits

Plus-Sizing will develop the handling of your car! Each step will decrease the proportion of flexible tire sidewall to rigid alloy. This will improve response, will help keep the tire tread square to the road and will improve your car's feedback. If done correctly speed and odometer accuracy will retain and the car look better.

Disadvantages

Often, tire inches are lighter than wheel inches. Plus-sizing can make your overall wheel/tire package heavier. Reducing the profile of your tires will also decrease your car's damping deflection under compression the ride quality will get worse. Other disadvantages can include the need for more expensive tires, your brakes looking undersized and people's grannies laughing and calling your car a buggy.

You got the Alloy Wheels and then what?

Before you do anything, ensure to see that you have the right sort of bolts - Bolts and studs have various diameters, threads and settings, your wheel supplier should be able to advice on this. Also check to see that you the 4 plastic spigot rings which help the interface between the wheel and the hub.

Next you need to jack your car up; do this in a secure way, and be sure to use axle stands, chock wheels still in contact with the ground and apply the parking brake. Offer a wheel up to the car and check that the bolt holes line up, that the wheel locates on the hub properly and that there is wheel arch, suspension strut and brake caliper clearance. If you have upgraded your brakes be SURE to seek advice and measure everything thoroughly before you order.

The wheel bolts or nuts must be tightened to the manufacturer's precise torque. Be sure to re-torque after a 100 miles or so as they will compress slightly; tighten them increasingly till they're 3/4 tight then lower the car and complete the process.

Take care of your Alloy Wheels

As anybody who's stepped into a motor factor in the last 10 years will tell you, there's a huge variety of specialist wheel cleaners on the market, all designed to help make the job of cleaning your new rims that little bit easier, unfortunately the real key to a great finish is hard work.

Before you fit your wheels, give them several coats of good quality car polish back and front. This will help prevent the road salt, brake dust and dirt keying to the surface on first use. Be sure to treat the surface of your alloys as well, if not better, than you would your paintwork. Remember, you have spent a small fortune of your alloys and they're going to be subject to the harshest conditions of just about any part of the car!

Frequent washing with mildly soapy warm water; and remember to hose all the loose abrasive grit off first. This is the best way to keep wheels clean. Do not use abrasive cleansers, electric buffers or wire wool pads on your wheels. Where it is possible let your wheels cool before cleaning them and keep away from car-wash wheel-cleaners at all times.

Huge amount of information about Alloy Wheels on this site - go check out.

The Bear Truth 2

The Bear Truth 2 compound bow from Bear Archery is their top of the line performance bow.  Machined from 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum, for lightweight yet ultimate strength, this bow a light but very durable and a very nice shooting bow with very little recoil. The Truth is outfitted with beyond parallel limbs that reduce the overall shock and noise upon release.  Flare Quad Limb design, using FEA (finite element analysis); they have evenly distributed the stress on the limbs during draw and release of the bow. This even stress proves to result in a smoother release and a more even and efficient energy transfer to the arrow and maximizes the reduction of vibration and noise.

The powerful single cam proves it is an engine for speed when The TRUTH 2 reaches 318 fps. Yet, the cam's shape sets the stage for a smooth draw – including an asymmetric power track that reduces friction and increases cable life. Further, the cam quietly rotates during draw and release on a sealed, stainless steel ball bearing. Likewise, the idler wheel pivots on stainless steel sealed ball bearings. Smooth is built into every part of The Truth 2. And this cam has 1in. modular increments and 1/2in. post increments, including a large segment of the draw length range that does not require a bow press.

Machined Aluminum Pivoting Limb Cups are built with a side-locking tang on The TRUTH 2 to create a rigid, "zero tolerance" fit – increasing sturdiness and consistency while reducing vibration. Pivoting limb cups maintain a tight limb-to-cup-to-riser fit, regardless of draw weight adjustment. And rubber isolation boots mean that the limb never touches the limb cup (avoiding any direct transference of vibration from limb to riser).

 The Bear Truth 2 features a 7” brace height, an axle to axle length of 33”, 80% let off and a mass weight of 3.9 pounds. Also including a one piece synthetic grip, and available in finishes including Realtree AP, black, cobalt blue, and fire tiger, the Bear Truth 2 is one great bow.

About the Author

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Archery Country is a full service archery and hunting retail and online store located in Central Minnesota. Archery Country carries a very large selection of equipment, including the Bear Truth 2 and gear for the archer or hunter. Archery Country's staff has decades of experience to share with and educate those who have an interest in archery and the outdoors.
Please visit Archery Country for all your archery needs.

resting 400 sbc (18 year) part 3!!!!!?

Okay if it turns out that I need to rebuild the 400. Would u agree that this would be a good time to go all out and have it bored maybe say 30 over? Is it that more expensive to bore it and add a larger cam and other goodies? Would these changes effect my 350 tranny. What would be a good set up for me. I already purchased a 650 holley double pumper for the initial set-up. What would make a good application using that carb while beefing up the engine.

yes have it bored and decked, a good valve job, new flat top pistons, and a cam with about .470 lift, and a dual plane intake, it shouldn't hurt the 350 tranny and you should have a fairly potent engine depending on what machine shop you take it to it should cost about 350 for the block and about 300 for the heads, 180 to turn the crank, and if you want about 200 to have it balanced (highly recomended).....by the time you are done should have about 1500 to 2000 in the engine

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