Cover Bolts Original

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Cover Bolts Original
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One look at a web lawn chair will immediately evoke feelings and memories of the past. Chances are some of these chairs are still lurking around the garage. With a little tender loving care, these old school chairs can be repaired and restored to look as good as new. A functional and affordable fix, web lawn chairs can add a retro style to any porch or patio that will create conversation and reminiscing from visitors and neighbors for years to come.

Everyone knows what kind of lawn chairs these are - the aluminum frames with straps of vinyl or nylon that are woven to create a sturdy seat and back. Their durability makes them ideal for outdoor use, so they have made their way through the soccer game and backyard circuit for decades. Although they do not have fancy cup holders or elaborate carrying cases, web chairs are supremely classic.

Depending on the chair's condition, they may or may not be salvageable. A chair with extensive damage to the aluminum frame will not last much longer, so do not waste time trying to repair it. However, fixing a few broken straps or just updating the look of the chair is easy and inexpensive.

First, determine the width of the straps. Webbing that is too thin will not be supportive enough. There are many different color options, so choose the one that is closest to matching the current material. To create a uniform look, buy enough webbing to recover the entire chair. Kits are available on the Internet that include instructions for replacing webbing, as well as extra components needed to get the job done.

The process of removing and replacing webbing is simple. Unscrew the original bolts and discard the damaged strap. Weave the new material in the same pattern as the rest of the straps, pull it tightly, and screw it in place. Finally, cut any excess fabric and there you have it - a function and stylish throwback to the past.

In the current economic environment, people are trying to save money around the home instead of spending. Decorating trends are using salvaged wood and other materials in an effort to be more economically and environmentally conscious. Save money - and the earth - by repurposing old web lawn chairs instead of throwing them away. It is an affordable way to relax in the yard, watch the kids' soccer games, or just enjoy the look of this throwback piece in the home.

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How to Bleed Your Motor Bike's Brakes With More Success

The first time I decided to strip down the front brakes on my Honda Superdream, I thought it best to follow the manual. I duly bought one on ebay and then set about following the instructions as carefully as possible. All well and good, the manual was from a reputable company (famous in the UK for strip-downs of any vehicle you could mention) and most of what it said was accurate and helpful. However, when it came to bleeding the brakes I found that the information given was hopeless.

In fact the method they suggested was in line with most other manuals and is considered by many to be the only way to bleed brake lines of air. That said, I couldn't get it to work! So you can see what I am referring to I will quote 

"Check the level of the reservoir, and fill almost to the top. Place a jar below the brake caliper unit and attach a clear plastic tube from the calliper bleed screw to the container so that the pipe is always immersed below the surface of the fluid. Unscrew the bleed screw one complete turn and pump the handlebars lever slowly. As the fluid is ejected from the bleed screw the level in the reservoir will fall. Continue the pumping action with the lever until no further air bubbles emerge from the end of the pipe."

I won't quote any further as it was at this point that I discovered that the fluid just did not appear to flow out of the bleed nipple in the way it describes above. The Handlebar lever continued to be spongy and I eventually decided after slowly pumping for at least 20 minutes to think of another way to clear the air from the system.

One of the key problems with motor bikes is that the brake lever is set right up on the handle bars, way above the caliper unit; unlike on a car where the pedal is on the floor, at more or less the same level as the calipers. This means that you are trying to force air down the brake lines, when all air wants to do is rise to the top (as it is lighter than the fluid of course). A solution might be to remove the lever and master cylinder from the handlebars and to pump the lever from a much lower position, as close to the level of the calliper as possible. I tried this, but because I'd had to remove the cover from the reservior to top up the liquid I managed to spill the fluid all over the place. Not ideal, as brake fluid works as a great paint stripper!

So now to my successful method! Rather than taking the reservoir off the handlebars, I instead undid the two bolts that secure the calliper to the fork. Next I slid the caliper unit away from the wheel. At this point you will probably find that your bike differs in someway from the Superdream, however you should find that it's possible to place a G-clamp (screw end) into the calliper piston. This will only be possible if you remove the brake pads and any retaining pins etc. You may also find that there are various protective rubber skirts etc. around the piston itself. This shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't snag these in the clamp as you turn the screw.

With the pads out of the way, I pumped the handlebar lever a few times and forced the piston much further out of the calliper unit than it would normally be able to go. VERY IMPORTANT - DO NOT do this bit with too much enthusiasm and spring the piston right out of the calliper unit (unless you intend to do a full strip down and want to replace the piston seals). This will be very, very messy and getting the piston back into the unit will be harder than you think!  

Next, I positioned the G-Clamp (screw end) over the piston and slowly turned it until it reached the base of the piston.

Before continuing I removed the cover from the reservoir on the handlebars and then as I turned the screw I watched the air from the brake line bubble its way to the top of the reservoir. Eventually the bubbles stopped appearing and I knew that there air had all been forced out of the system. The piston was back in its original position and the brake pads could be pushed back into place, secured and the whole unit bolted back onto the fork.

Yes, it was a little more complicated than conventional bleeding; but, it was cleaner; no nipples to undo, no plastic pipes held under the surface of the ejected fluid, in fact, no fluid at all had to be ejected from the system. I didn't have to pump away at the lever for ages, waiting for a sign of success. The G-Clamp did it all.

At this point I can see that simple instructions without the story might be appropriate, so here is the simple version.
1.  Undo the bolts that secure the calliper unit to the forks.

2.  Slide calliper unit away from the wheel.

3.  Remove brake pads and retaining pins etc.

4.  Pump the handlebar lever slowly until the piston has been pushed quite a way out of the unit (a couple of centimetres max.)

5.  Slot a G-Clamp over the calliper unit and position the screw end over the piston.

6.  Screw down until screw end makes contact with the base of the piston.

7.  Remove cover from reservoir on the handlebars.

8. Continue screwing G-Clamp and watch the little air bubbles rising to the top of the reservoir.

9.  When there are no more air bubbles and the piston is right back where it started your job is done.

10. Replace cover of reservoir; slide brake pads back into place and replace retaining pins; secure calliper unit back onto fork.

At this point I must add that I am not a mechanic and I only mess about with bikes and cars for fun. However, having used this method I took the bike for its annual MOT (Ministry of Transport) Test, and it passed with flying colours. Brakes super efficient and safe for the road.

About the Author

Mechanic for fun, artist and other stuff that I'll think about later.

How can I tell what model of Epiphone Les Paul I have?

Most of the original hardware was changed out before I bought it. The truss rod cover says Gibson as opposed to Les Paul Standard or Custom, etc...... I know it isn't a Studio or any of the cheap bolt on neck versions but that is about it. Any suggestions or helpful hints would be appreciated.
It also has the maple top.

I think it's an Epiphone Custom or Studio.

The Comic-Con Friday, July 23 Schedule!
The San Diego Comic-Con has posted the schedule for Friday, July 23. You can view the full schedule here , but below are the movie and TV events that ComingSoon.net/SuperHeroHype/ShockTillYouDrop.com will be concentrating on. Stay tuned to ComingSoon.net's Comic-Con section for all the latest updates!

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