Crank Pos Sensor

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Crank Pos Sensor
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Designed for indoor use, baby swings typically consist of a seat suspended by a pair of arms attached to a frame with wide-standing, tubular-metal legs. Swings come in windup and battery-operated models. To make a windup model swing, you crank a handle at the top or side of the frame, which provides 20 to 30 minutes of movement. Battery-operated swings are driven by a motor that generally uses four D batteries. Such models emit a low churning noise with each passage of the swing. Most of the swings on the market today are battery-operated.

With either a windup or battery-powered mechanism, swings are lightweight and can be easily moved from room to room, although some are more maneuverable than others. Standard-size swings eat up a fair amount of room, so they may not be for you if floor space is scarce.

Some parents of colicky babies swear by swings. Other parents say they get by just fine without one. You may find that a swing comes in handy if your baby needs to sleep in a semi-upright position due to a cold or stuffy nose (although a bouncer seat may do the trick as well).

SHOPPING SECRETS

Decide whether you want a windup or battery-operated swing.

A windup model may be perfectly adequate as long as it's stable and has a well-padded, reclining seat that affords easy access. Battery-operated models usually have a sleeker design plus more features, such as speed controls, baby-sound activation, and toys attached to a front play tray. However, many parents find the motors noisy. If possible, try display models in the store (with batteries) or double-check the store's return policy. Then, test the swing as soon as you get home so you'll have the option of taking it back within the time allowed.

Try your baby out in a friend's swing or bring baby to the store with you for test runs when you're shopping. Keep in mind that your baby may not like the motion of a swing at first, although that could change after a few tries. Your baby's reactions may help you decide on one brand over another, or whether you're even a candidate for a swing in the first place.

WHAT'S AVAILABLE

The major brands of baby swings are, in alphabetical order: Fisher-Price, Graco, J. Mason, and Kolcraft. Prices for windup swings range from $40 to $65. The price range for battery-operated swings is $70 to $100.

FEATURES TO CONSIDER

Crotch post. A built-in crotch post prevents a baby from sliding out of the seat--an extra safety measure. There should also be a safety belt, which most models have.

Frames. Swings without a top crossbar make it easier to put your baby in and take him or her out again. At the very least, look for a swing that has a wide, sturdy stance and folds or dismantles for storage.

Seat cover. Look for plush padding that's machine-washable.

Seat settings. Multiple reclining positions can help you find the most soothing posture for your baby, which is especially important if baby likes to nap while swinging (a common combo).

Speeds. Some battery-operated swings give you up to eight speeds, but more than four is overkill. The faster speeds may annoy rather than relax your baby.

Swinging motion. Some swings have two swinging motions: side to side and front to back. That's nice but not essential.

Timer. Some models feature a time-remaining indicator that can help you keep tabs on the action.

Toys. Many swings come equipped with toy bars or trays, which is an option your baby may enjoy. But make sure they're within reach so your baby can actually touch them. Also check that they're safely attached and have no small parts that might cause choking.

Nice but not necessary extras include a front tray, with or without attached toys; sound (classical music and lullabies), which may or may not be soothing to little ones and grown-ups; a light display; storage baskets on the side to hold toys and accessories; and a remote control to activate the swinging action, music, or both. Some swings try to sense when baby needs comforting and respond automatically. A built-in sound sensor "hears" baby's sounds and responds by swinging and/or playing music.

RECOMMENDATIONS

Look for a swing that has a sturdy, stable frame with strong posts and legs as well as a wide stance to prevent tipping. The bottom of the legs or frame should not protrude so far that you're likely to trip over them, however. Examine the seat. It should be well padded and have a crotch post (if it's not a travel version) to prevent your baby from sliding out. It should also offer a partially reclined position for snoozing. You'll also want a secure safety belt.

If you buy a model with a cradle or bassinet attachment, make sure it's well mounted underneath, with no potential for breaking loose. If you opt for a battery-operated swing, come equipped with four C or D cell batteries to test products in the store and hear the sound of the motor (a deal-killer for many parents). As a rule, swings don't come with batteries included.

Copyright © 2002-2006 Consumers Union of U.S., Inc.

For the latest information on this and many other products and services, visit http://www.ConsumerReports.org

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Electric Bicycles – A Buyers Guide

Commonly asked questions and the advantages and disadvantages of the different types of electric bikes.

 

What is an electric bike?

a.k.a Battery bike, E bike, Pedelec

In it's most basic form it is a bike with a motor, a battery and a controller to regulate speed and power.

 

Commonly asked questions

How fast will it go?

The law says that an electric bicycle should not be capable of more than 15 mph (25kph) under power.

The bike will go faster than that (going downhill or if you pedal really hard!) but not under power.

The average leisure cyclist rides at 8 to 12 mph – so 15 mph is actually quite quick!

 

Do I have to wear a helmet?

Not if you don't want to.

 

Do I need Tax or Insurance?

No, as long as the bike conforms to the regulations for electric bikes it is classed as a bicycle and can be used on cycle paths etc.

Will it go up hill without me pedalling?

Electric bikes are designed to assist the rider and by their very nature will not climb the steepest hills with no assistance from the rider.

 

Do I have to pedal?

Yes, electric bikes are designed primarily as pedal assist, but they can make it a lot easier. They take the strain out of joints allowing the rider to exercise without over exerting or arriving hot and sweaty.

 

 

How do I choose the right one for me?

To decide which electric bike is best for you, first think about how you will use it.

Frame first – does it need to fold? Do you need a trike for stability? What size wheels do you prefer?

Distance – will you be using it for lots of short journeys or are you regularly riding for longer distances?

Level of assistance – How much help do you want the bike to give you? Do you want maximum assistance with minimum effort? Do you want to do most of the work but with assistance on hills? Do you want variable assistance so you can select the level of help for each journey?

When you know how you are going to use your electric bike it is much easier to choose the right one for you.

 

Pedal Assist – What does it mean?

Exactly what it sounds like, as you turn the pedals, the controller senses the movement and turns on the motor to help. When you stop pedalling the motor stops.

 

Types of Pedal Assist

Rotation Sensor– this senses the pedals are turning and switches the motor on at a pre-set speed. This type of system can be available with a single speed or selectable levels.

Advantages – You don't have to push hard on the pedals to get maximum assistance. Selectable level versions are very versatile.

Disadvantages – Single level version goes at maximum speed all the time.

Torque Sensor – this additionally senses how hard you are pressing the pedals and varies the assistance level accordingly.

i.e. If you press gently it just gives a little help (slow), press harder and it helps more (faster). This system may also have selectable power levels.

Advantages – Slows down and speeds up intuitively. Uses battery economically for greater distance per charge.

Disadvantages – To get maximum assistance full pressure must be put on the pedals.

Twist Grip Throttle - Some motors are not actuated by the pedals but by a twist grip throttle that must be turned whilst you are pedalling and held in position.

Advantages – Power assistance variable

Disadvantages – Holding the throttle twisted all the time, including while signalling.

 

Combination, Pedal Assist and Throttle

Some bikes with pedal assist have a twist grip too. This can allow the rider to take ‘a breather' without having to stop. On a torque sensor bike this allows the rider to select ‘extra' power, which can be useful when going up hill.

 

Easy Start and Launch Assist

These are both terms for a device used to help you to set off on your electric bike. Often the hardest part of cycling is the initial push to get going especially if you have stopped on an incline, or in traffic when you want to get up to speed quite quickly.

Twist grip – variable power, twist more for extra assistance.

Advantages – instant assist

Disadvantages – twisting too quickly could make bike unsteady (particularly front hub motors)

Button – up to 4 mph (6 kph)

Advantages – nice steady start, no ‘drama', can be used to assist when pushing the bike.

Disadvantages – one speed only.

 

Battery types

Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) – when electric bikes were first becoming popular they were hampered by battery technology and were equipped with SLA batteries.

Advantages – Low cost

Disadvantages – heavy (typically 15kg), limited range (10 – 15 miles), short life (300 cycles)

Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMh) & Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) – lighter weight than SLA and greater distance (15 – 20 miles).

Advantages – Cost (mid price)

Disadvantages – memory effect (must be fully discharged regularly) performance reduced in cold weather.

Lithium Ion (Li-ion) – even lighter (36v 3.5 kg) with high energy density and no memory effect. There are several types of Li-ion batteries the principals being

Lithium Polymer (Li-Po)

Lithium Manganese (Li-Mn)

Both these types of battery offer good power to weight characteristics.

Advantages – lightweight, good distance (30 – 40 miles), good life (1000 cycles)

Disadvantages – Higher cost

Lithium Ferrous Phosphate (LiFePo4) – has good electrical and thermal stability

Advantages – extended life (2000 cycles)

Disadvantages – lower energy density giving slightly shorter distances (25 – 30 miles)

 

Battery Charging – how long does it take?

If you have chosen an electric bike with an adequate distance for your needs an overnight charge can be the best solution.

Standard Charger – 6 – 8 hours

Advantages – Kind to the battery, suitable for low power situations

Disadvantages – you can't recharge over lunch!

Fast Charger – 2 – 3 hours

Advantages – Fast!

Disadvantages – can reduce the life of the battery

Charging from 12V – generally not available as a direct charger but can be done via an inverter.

Battery Charging Cost

This will of course depend on how much you pay for your electric but typically between 5 and 20 pence

Battery Replacement Cost

May seem very expensive (£300 - £500) but when you consider the distance you can ride on an electric bike it actually is very reasonable. Even if you only do 20 miles per charge for a thousand charges that gives you 20,000 miles. For a £300 battery that equals 1.5p per mile.

 

Battery Position

Below Seat – in front of the rear wheel, this has been a popular position for heavier batteries.

Advantages – keeps centre of gravity low

Disadvantages – increases wheelbase making some bikes too long for a standard bike rack.

Rack Mounted – popular position for Li-ion batteries.

Advantages – Wheelbase can be standard. Battery can be ‘disguised' with panniers.

Disadvantages – slightly higher centre of gravity.

Water Bottle – some manufacturers ‘hide' the battery here

Advantages – discreet and small

Disadvantages – small battery which gives lower mileage.

In Frame – New lightweight bikes are being developed with the battery inside the frame.

Advantages – discrete, secure.

Disadvantages – Very high cost, harder to replace.

 

Motor Types

Hub Motors – fitted to the centre of either the front or rear wheel.

Front Hub

Advantages – can then fit hub gears in the rear

Disadvantages – can be a bit skittish in slippery conditions.

Rear Hub

Advantages – very stable power delivery

Disadvantages – not compatible with hub gears

Brushed Motor

Advantages – can be used for regenerative braking. Simple. Reliable.

Disadvantages – can cause drag when pedalling with motor off.

Brushless Motor

Advantages – causes very little drag when riding with power off. Lighter. Compact. Efficient.

Disadvantages – cannot be used for regenerative braking.

Crank Motor – drives the bike through the normal gear system

Advantages – efficient, changes gear with the bike.

Disadvantages – expensive, requires specialist frame, beware cheap crank motors.

 

Displays and Gauges

Battery Meter – ideally choose an electric bike that has a battery indicator on the handlebars. This can be in the form of an LED display or a series of lights that go out as the battery charge is depleted.

On Battery Meter – some batteries incorporate a meter, which is useful if you have more than one battery and can't remember which one you have charged.

Power level – shows the selected level of assistance

Brakes - these can be any of the ‘normal' bicycle types, blocks or discs. The important thing is that purpose built electric bikes have an additional wire from the brake lever this is from a cut-out switch that shuts off the motor when braking.

 

Lights – these can be powered in several ways, directly from main battery, separate battery for individual lights, dynamo. Be aware that if they are powered from the main battery and it goes flat you will be without lights.

 

Test Ride - wherever possible, different models have a different feel when riding, try several to see which one suits you.

 

The Law – In the UK the minimum riding age for an electric bike is 14. The bike must weigh less than 40kg (60kg for a trike). Be restricted to 15mph (25kph). Maximum continuous power output 200/250 W.

 

Electric bikes get more use – Many people by a bicycle with the intention of riding to work to save on parking or fuel cost, or as a way of getting fit, but the bike ends up sitting in the garage. Statistics show that people that purchase an electric bike are more likely to ride it and go out more often.

About the Author

Sue Coulson is the test rider for Batribike. Sue writes a blog detailing her test riding experiences embellished with comments on the changing seasons in the British countryside. Sue taught cycling proficiency to 10 to 11 year olds for ten years and is a keen supporter of cycling safely.

Website: www.batribike.com Blog: http://batribike.blogspot.com/

I have a 1997 SOHC, AT dodge neon that wont get spark?

New head gasket job, I started it up and ran great 5+ starts and then nothing. Engine shut down no sounds or anything. I checked all fuses and relays and I am not geting spark but I am geting fuel. I am not getting any voltage out of the feed to the coil. I replaced the cam pos. sensor and had the crank sensor check, good. It cranks great but still, no spark. I also tested the coil pack and it was good, and like I said I wasnt getting anything TO the coil. I cleaned all connections twice, and studied the wiring schematics.NOTHING!!! INFURIATING!!! I have talked to mechanics and experts but they havent told me anything I dont know. Possibly could be a fault in the ASD cicuit after the fuel injectors?? I am 14 and this was my first head gasket job on my sisters car and I recieved no help, my father lives in florida. Like I said the car was running great 5+ start ups after I finished the head gasket Then it cut out, no noises or smoke. Any help will be thanked with MUCH praise!!!

Nice. You have done your home work. Did you have the coil pack tested? If you have and it tested good then my only thought left would be the timing belt jumped on you. Bring the crank around to TDC and check the cam. If they are not lined up you've jumped your timing belt. Reset the timing and it should run fine. You may also need to get an OBD II computer and conduct a relearn on the sensors. Let me know if you need more help.

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