Crankshaft Distributor Drive

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Crankshaft Distributor Drive
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When one or more of the cylinders in your engine misfires, you'll notice a hard idle, hard start, or hesitation during acceleration. In some cases, you'll experience all three. While idling, your engine might shudder so violently that it shakes your entire steering column. While driving, you'll notice a marked lag in performance. These problems will be more pronounced if you turn on your A/C or use any other accessories that add to the load placed upon your engine. The question is, what causes a misfire in the first place?

There are three primary reasons for a misfiring cylinder: insufficient spark, compression, or fuel. The challenge is to determine which factor is to blame.

Insufficient Spark For Ignition

Your engine undergoes a 4-stroke combustion process that results in the energy needed to turn your car's crankshaft. Air and fuel travel into each cylinder. The intake and exhaust valves close, sealing the combustion chamber. A piston lies at the bottom, and begins to rise, compressing the air-fuel mixture. When the piston reaches the topmost point of its path, a spark plug ignites the mixture and causes a miniature explosion. Vapors expand within the chamber and push the piston downward. This rotates the crankshaft and powers your vehicle.

Note that the process described above requires the spark plug to ignite the compressed air-fuel blend. If this spark is unavailable, or too weak, the mixture cannot be ignited. This causes a misfire.

Insufficient spark can be traced to several possible root causes. For example, the plug may be worn, corroded, or damaged; the plug wire may also be worn, preventing voltage from reaching the spark plug; or the distributor cap may have become cracked or otherwise damaged. Each of these factors will prevent voltage from being delivered to the combustion chamber.

If you intend to fix the problem without the help of a mechanic, you'll first need to identify which cylinder is misfiring. You can accomplish this by letting your car idle and unhooking the plug wires, one at a time. You'll notice a change in the idle speed after disengaging each good cylinder. When you unhook a plug wire and notice no change, you'll have found the misfiring cylinder. Check the plug and the plug wire. You'll need an ohmmeter to check the plug wire's resistance.

Compression Leaks In The Engine

Recall that during the 4-stroke combustion process, the air-fuel mixture is compressed by the rising piston. In order for this to occur properly, there should be very little compression leakage from the chamber (a small amount of leakage is normal). If a sizable leak has developed, the air-fuel mix cannot be sufficiently compressed for the ignition stroke.

Once you have identified the misfiring cylinder, perform a compression test (a manual tester costs less than $30 at most auto supply shops). If you discover a leak, the cause will likely be due to a bad exhaust valve. You'll likely need to have the guide seals replaced. As a side note, if you detect a leak in two neighboring cylinders, the culprit is probably a failing head gasket.

Malfunctioning Fuel Injectors

If you have checked the spark plug, plug wire, distributor cap, and compression, and have been unable to find a problem, the misfire is likely due to insufficient fuel. The best place to begin troubleshooting is with your fuel injection system - specifically, the injector for the misfiring cylinder. Assuming enough fuel is reaching the injector, the most common issue is a blockage in the nozzle. Such blockages are often caused by deposits left behind when you turn off your engine.

Once you have ruled out ignition and compression as possible causes of the misfire, it's best to have an experienced mechanic check the fuel system. If you can identify a clog in the injector, replace the unit. Otherwise, insufficient fuel could be caused by a failing oxygen sensor, malfunctioning powertrain control module (PCM), or a bad fuel pump. Your mechanic will have the necessary equipment for diagnosing which factor is causing the problem.

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Street Supercharging To Build Maximum Horsepower

There is no doubt that supercharging is one of the best ways to build reliable good horsepower from a street engine. Done the right way you can add 300 horsepower to the engine in your muscle car; while having the dependability to drive it everyday.

Having almost done away with parasitic loss; the efficiency has gone up about 30%; allowing the supercharger to generate more power. We all love horsepower in our hot rods, we love to go faster any way that we can.

If you match up the engine build to the supercharger, and take in to consideration what your trying to do with the car; you may end up with the perfect car for you. A supercharger is one of the greatest things on earth for a muscle car.

You need to match up the camshaft, and heads along with a few other things, such as the right compression ratio of pistons in the about 9:1 range, and  forged rather then cast. Make sure that the bottom end of the engine is strong; use a four bolt main block.  

Street supercharging can provide you with years of great driving enjoyment. You should always use a forged steel crankshaft when building a supercharged engine. Make sure that you buy carburetors that are specially built for a supercharger engine.

When supercharging a V8 engine; you don't need to push major boost to develop the power. About 7.5 - 9 pounds will work for the street with most street superchargers. This should develop all the power that you need, while still being able to use pump gas.

If your going to use a fuel injection rather then carburetors, you will need to match the fuel injectors to your camshaft and heads. It's imperative that they spray just the right amount of fuel; or you could lose some of the power that your trying so hard to build.

Also when street supercharging timing is of the utmost importance to building power. The camshaft that you buy should come with a cam card; this car will tell you what the optimum timing is for that camshaft, if you do everything just right your car will be a beast of the street.

Rather you use a carburetor, or fuel injection you should make 100% sure that your air to fuel ratios are set correctly. The aim of setting these is to get the fuel mixture as lean as possible, without burning your pistons; this is the optimum setting for making mass power from your engine.

Make sure that your supercharger drive speed is over driven, or under driven right for your application. Obviously if your trying to generate power, you should over drive the supercharger. I usually recommend 8 – 10% for street engines.

This means that the supercharger would spin 8 – 10% faster then the crankshaft speed of the engine. You should talk to the person who's building your engine to figure out what you want though. Always consult with a high performance engine builder when you install a street supercharger.

This is just a few tips; it's not meant to make a you an authority on superchargers. If they are installed wrong; the damage to your engine will be massive, do yourself a favor, and read up on it a bit before your attempt to install a street supercharger.

Their is noting hard about it, all you have to do is pay attention, and make sure that it's done right. Make sure that you spend a lot of time when you install the distributor; an intake back fire can ruin your engine if the pop off valve malfunctions.

Take all of these things in to consideration when you build your engine, and everything should go fine. This is far from everything; but it's enough to get the job done. Take your time to build it right, and your street supercharger should do everything your want it to.

About the Author

My area of interest is classic cars, and muscle cars, but in the past a few years I have become increasingly concerned about our country. I have been in the automotive industry in one form, or another for about 30 years, and I started on the internet to help the automotive industry with a place that they could afford to advertise their businesses.
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2000 Chrysler Sebring LX cut off and won't start?

So my car cut off while driving and won't start. Engine turns over when I turn the key, but it won't start. Plenty of gas in the tank, just filled it up 2 days before. I already replaced the crankshaft sensor, even though I recieved no codes on the Scan Tool as everything I read said I should start there. Now I'm thinking either distributor of fuel filter or pump. I also tried disconnecting the MAP sensor, still didn't start. Wondering if somebody could point me in the right direction, thanks.

Several things to check - do you have fuel pressure? If not, then you may have a bad fuel pump.Do you have spark? If not then you may have a bad coil or a bad distributor if it is a v-6.

Performance cars of 2011
Several sporty new models are set to arrive in 2011, starting from less than $30,000 and ranging right through to $2million-plus. Here is Drive's comprehensive list of the cars you could see revving their engines alongside you at the traffic lights in 2011.

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