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Delete Pulley Bracket
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 mustang a/c delete pulley and bracket 79-93 Billet Aluminum  US $40.00
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A new bicycle is usually pretty quiet when you are riding but as they age there are certain noises such as squeaks, rattles, clunks and clicks that you may hear. These noises can be very important in the long term care of your bicycle.
Pay attention to the noises such as a rattle in the bike and where the rattle comes from. A rattle coming from the front of the bike maybe a loose headset and a simple tightening could very well get rid of that altogether.
If the rattles sound like it is more in the wheels, take a look your wheels and it you are running Presta Valve Tires you may want to remove the valve nuts, these little rings can be a source of aggravation. Some people just throw then out altogether or I have seen some people put small rubber washers under them and tighten then snug so that water doesn't get into the rim. If you have a rattle in the wheel area they are a good place to start checking
Loose Cassette Cogs can also cause rattling and will seem to come from the rear wheel. You may need some special tools like a chainwhip wrench to tighten up the cassette or you may end up just replacing it altogether depending on the amount of wear.
Other things that may cause a rattle are loose water bottle cages, you may have to bend the cage back to hold a smaller water bottle and of course make sure the bolts holding the cage are tight.
The tools in your tool bag could be hitting on each other or on the seat post and causing a rattle. This can be fixed by wrapping the tools in a rag or even an old sock the sock can then double as a glove to keep you from getting too greasy if you need to change a tire or do some minor roadside repair.
The list above is by no means inclusive, there are many other things on the bicycle and maybe even the rider that can cause a rattling noise when you are riding, virtually all are harmless if caught in time.
Squeaking and squealing are two noises that can be annoying and could signal something serious, so do listen to your bike.
A dry or poorly lubricated chain will often cause a sort of squealing or squeaking noise. To fix that simply lubricate the chain, but be sure to wipe off any excess to keep the chain from attracting a lot of dirt and clogging up the chain with sludge.
Derailleur pulleys can also cause a squeaking noise which is often described as a bird chirping. This is usually easily detected because the faster you go the louder and faster it squeaks. A few drops of oil between the pulley and the side plate will usually take care of that noise.
Clunks when pedaling are usually caused by a loose bottom bracket or loose pedal or both. If the bottom bracket is loose you may be able to adjust it, tighten it or you may have to replace it altogether. If the clunking is from the pedals you may be able to tighten them up and get rid of the noise.
Clicking noises can come from a variety of sources also, the most likely being the wheels. The spokes on the wheels cross each other and since no one including me seems to ever think of lubricating these they get dry and tend to make some clicking noises sometimes. A simple solution is to lubricate the spokes where they come together once or twice a year and you will probably eliminate that possibility altogether.
The crankarm coming loose or not being properly lubricated or the chainring bolts coming loose can also cause some clicking noises. Removing, cleaning and lubing the crankarm, tightening or replacing the chainring bolts should take care of any problems in that part of the bike.
Jerry Goodwin has been certified as a Medical Technologist since 1977. He is an avid Cyclist participating in Road racing, Mountain Biking and BMX Racing. He sponsored or been the event director in numerous cycling events for various charities including the Toys for Tots, The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, The South Georgia Foiod Bank, Carolines Ride, and the Southwest Georgia Cyclefest-Making a difference in the lives of wounded warriors in Southwest Georgia. Jerry was certified as a Personal Trainer for several years and still answers questions about weightlifting and exercise as well as cycling at http://www.allexperts.com
Jerry served in the US Navy during the VietNam era aboard the Jesse L. Brown DE1089. After release from Active Duty in the Navy Jerry served in the Ohio National Guard, the Kansas National Guard and the Georgia National Guard. Honors include the Ohio Award of Merit, The Ohio Special Services Ribbon and the Army Commendation Medal. For more information on Jerry Goodwin check out the blog at http://www.thebicyclenut.com.
what size belt do i need?
its a 1990 mustang gt. no smog pump. the ac was removed but i just put a ford racing delete kit which gave the need for bigger belt. but at the same time i added under-drive pulleys on alternator, water pump, and crank and now the belt i have is too big. i believe its 72 or 73 the tensioner is where the belt runs into its self. its so long that the tensioner is straight up and down. i bought the car with tensioner that had ground off nub on back. replaced that. and the ac was removed without kit and power steering bracket broke so it flexed. the ac delete kit fixed that so i think a new belt and the belt drive will be good for first time since i owned car
Measurement may be taken with a piece a wire just to have a idea
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