Fan Belt Idler

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Fan Belt Idler
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There is a big difference when buying a second hand or used excavator; at least twenty five to fifty percent of the cost is the difference from the new excavator. The amount is dependable on the condition of the equipment.

Furthermore, someone must be careful; though a second hand excavator is cheaper but it can cost big during repairs. Hence, the total amount of the cost can make it not worthy to purchase.

The physical check is usually being done in two phases; the visual physical check and operation or performance check.

Stage I - Visual bodily or physical inspection. The following are the things to be checked in this stage:

Engine- If examining the engine, you must search around the compartment of the engine for any signs of soot which comes from smoke. Any sign of soot will signify that there is a need of overhauling for the engine. Check also for any indication oil leakages of the engine or neglect. After that, examine the battery for any deterioration. You have to inspect also the system of air cleaner to make sure that they are functioning. Any little quantity of dirt or dust may cause damage of the engine. Then check the cooling scheme, see to it that cooling fan belts are firm and the radiator is clean because it will destroy the cooling and air system which may cause the engine to overheat.

Cab, Boom, Stick and Bucket - a well maintained excavator will manifest the following signs: the cab interior is a fine condition and major damages are not suffered by the body. Slight scratch and tear are usual in utilized stuffs in any case. After that, examine the bucket, be sure no bucket in found underneath. If you found any, then it shows that the equipment was used to drive pilings and hammering of hard rocks alongside excavation. Thus, because of these, there is an opportunity that the equipment was subjected to jobs beyond its capability.

Next tests the revolving points and search for any softness between the bushing and the pins. Any slackness might indicate the necessity for substitution after purchasing it. The most important spinning point is between the body and the boom. Inspect the boom by means of straight edging and also the ladle stick in order to ensure that they are twisted or bent.

When checking the tracks, find out the extent of wear and if some connections that connect all the single metal plate track have undergone from tear or broken. While checking the undercarriage and track, inspect the level of the oil and purity in final drive. Find out if there are leaks or wear. Ensure that there is no water or any foreign particles inside. Lastly, check the roller metal framework for any signs of repair or cracks, which are the result of welding.

Stage 11 - Operation/Performance Inspection

This is the stage wherein the engine of the excavator starts on and after warm up. Ask for demonstration of the movement of stick and boom. This is the right time to find out for any slackness, which usually signifies that bushings need replacement. Inspect also the hydraulic cylinders as well as the tubes. Ensure that the tubes are not damaged or bent. Next examine the performance of the tracks if they are revolving equally. Lastly, make sure of the performance of the sway system that includes the bearing as well as the gears. The system must be able to revolve the cab. It must start efficiently and accurately. Any indication of slackness needs concern, it is alarming. Check the performance of the swing both clockwise and also counter clockwise direction.

Learn some tips on purchasing Used Excavator. For more information, please visit us at: http://used-excavator.org/blog/

How to Service Your Type 2 Bay Window Bus!

Servicing your VW Bay Window bus can see like a bit of chore in the excitement of the new spring season all ready upon us. Often there seems too much to do in terms of Volkswagen Camper meets, events and the inevitable road tips that are planned for the summer, to think about getting ones hands dirty, serving your cherished Volkswagon bus. Some or even most of us will take our cherished bus to a non Volkswagen garage to have it serviced, get charged through the nose for what's essentially no more than a regular car service. Even Volkswagen appointed garages will only undertake a standard vehicle service and not consider the unique requirements of a 30+ year old air-cooled Volkswagen Bus.

It is also too easy to forget that VW Bay Window Campers need frequent servicing; in fact some servicing tasks will require your attention at a frequency of as little as 2000 miles! It is incredible to think that most modern cars have service intervals of 10000 miles or more. The high operating temperatures of Air-cooled Volkswagens' for instance require oil changes every 3000 miles to protect vital engine components from heat and wear related damage.

Take my word for it! I am no mechanic, so I have written this article not as a definitive DIY servicing article but more as a simple 20 step guide that you can either use yourself or help your local mechanic to ensure your bus remains on the road for years to come! I have scavenged I lot of the material from the web and rehashed it to suit Class Campers. And I have subsequently referenced at the end of this article all the sites and printed material that I used.

Step 1

Changing engine oil

Engine oils should be changed at 3000 mile intervals, to ensure that your engine doesn't suffer from undue wear and tear. Some folks even suggest that it should be changed every 2000 miles. If this seems a little extreme just think about how much it will cost to replace your engine should you have a catastrophic failure due to excessive engine wear! The actual oil change interval is up to you, but I wouldn't recommend that you go more than 3000 miles.

Step 2

Tire pressures

It is important to your tires are inflated to the right pressure. Your buses ride will be better and its road handling will be much improved, which also means that it will be safer. Check your tire pressures at least every two weeks and always before a long journey. Make sure you know the correct tire pressures for your model of VW Bus. I will be adding standard tire pressures to Class Campers technical section soon but probably after the publish date of this article.

Step 3

Windscreen Washer bottle

The most peculiar set up I have ever seen! The washer bottle on a VW Bus is located behind the front kick panel to the left of the steering column. The peculiar part of the set up is the fact that it needs compressed air to force the water from the bottle to the windscreen. You can attach a normal air line at your local garage and pressurize to 40psi. Warning, do not pressurize it and more than 40psi because you run the risk of blowing the pipes of the washer nozzles. It's a lot of work to put them back on!

Step 4

Gearbox Oil

Although the gear box should only be changed every 30000 miles it may need topping up from time to time. The fill plug is located on the side of the gear box near to the clutch cable. The official documentation suggests you will need a 17mm Hex spanner, but mines seems to be 18mm! Use Hypiod EP80/90 gear oil and fill so the oil is level with the bottom of the hole. It is essential that locate your bus on a flat surface when you perform this task.

Step 5

Spark plugs

Cleaning your spark plugs should be undertaken every 5000 miles or so. The electrode gap should be 0.7mm or 0.028in. You can clean the electrode with a little piece of emery cloth or a fine wet and dry. Personally I prefer to completely change my spark plugs every 10000 miles and check them every 5000 miles or so.

Step 6

Distributer Cap

When you replace or check your spark plugs it is necessary to inspect the condition of the distributer electrodes because they can become corroded. If so they can be cleaned or replaced depending on the level of corrosion.

Step 7

Roter arm

The roter arm (inside the distributer), should be checked, cleaned or replaced every 5000 miles or when you check the condition of your spark plugs. They are not expensive so I prefer to replace new for old on every service.

Step 8

Ignition points

The Ignition points should be checked every time you undertake the general electrical servicing outline above. The points gap should be 0.4mm or 0.016in and should be clean. If they are pitted or corroded in any way they will need replacing.

Step 9

Fan Belt

Check every time you look in the engine bay! Its easy. 10 - 15mm play is fine, anymore and you should adjust. There are some small shims that can removed if the fan belt is to loose.

Step 10

Air filter

The air filter will need to be cleaned and the oil replaced every 5000 miles. Drain the old oil, clean and fill up with new engine oil. Make sure you dispose of your engine oil properly. Your local council will have an oil disposal unit.

Step 11

Fuel lines and hoses

Check the condition of your fuel lines every time you follow this service check list. If they are chapped in anyway replace them. Remember - no smoking! You can get very high quality steel lines if you prefer. Whilst you are doing this you can check the heater pipes for holes or badly fitting joints and repair if necessary. Having wholes or bad joints will reduce your buses chance of keeping you warm.

Step 12

Brake fluid

Brake fluid should be checked and topped up periodically. The brake fluid reservoir can be found behind the front kick panel.

Step 13

Brake Pads

The brake pads can be checked very easily on a bus, although you will need to remove the wheels. To do this jack up the vehicle and remember to always use axle stands. You will be able to see if your pads need replacing, they should be at least 7mm thick.

Step 14

Axle

The axle will need to be greased every 5-7000 miles. There are multiple points that need greasing. These are the steering idler that is located in the middle of the axle and the four trailing arm bushes at the ends. So a grease gun will be a great buy!

Step 15

Front & Rear Drums

The front and rear drums of your VW bus will require adjusting at lease every 6000 miles. To do this, you should insert a screwdriver in to the drum adjustment whole under the hub cap of your bus. More to follow

Step 16

Handbrake

The handbrakes on VW buses are notoriously bad and often hardly work at all. This is usually because they haven't been adjusted for years. This isn't a difficult task - more

Step 17

Wheel Bearings

Your wheel bearings will to be checked every 10000 miles or once a year which ever comes first. You should re-grease them every 20-30000 miles or two - three years. To check them jack up your bus (don't forget to use axle stands), and grasp the top and bottom of your wheel and push the top and pull the bottom of the wheel. If there is any play they will need to be replaced. If there is any grinding when you spin the wheel then it is likely that the bearing will need replacing.

Step 18

Clutch

Your clutch should be checked for play periodically and should have around 20mm play at the foot peddle. You should also grease the clutch cable periodically to help its ability to work efficiently and to stop it breaking because it gets stuck.

Step 19

I cant think of any more but if anyone has any other tips please let me know.

Thanks

About the Author

Paul James Gadsdon works at the University of Wales, Lampeter as an eLearning Technologist. He has also worked as a web developer and an eCommerce consultant.

He is the owner of several websites including www.classcampers.com, www.worldscheapesthomes.co.uk, www.beebiplayer.co.uk and www.internetinsurancequotes.co.uk

Should my fan belt always be moving when my car is running?

My car started running hot today, mostly when idling. I watched it get near the red, and it didn't start going down until I started moving. When I inspected the engine, I noticed the fan belt wasn't moving, then it would move slightly, then it would stop, then it would spin a few times. Every time it would start to move, there was a light chirp and vibrating rattle (bad description). Should it always be spinning, is this my problem?
My car is a 2000 Saturn SL1, 85K miles....thanks!
Anybody have an estimate on how much these repairs cost? Water pump, fan motor, etc.?

The fan should be coming on at certain temperature to prevent over heating when car is sitting in traffic. It's not needed when you're cruising along. It sounds like the fan motor itself is bad.

2002 SAAB 9-5 Aero from North America - Comments
What things have gone wrong with the car? Valve in A/C unit. Air bag sensor failure.

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