Oil Filler Cap

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Oil Filler Cap
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If you live within a city-limits, be sure to check with the city manager's office to see if they have any regulations about working on your own vehicle in your yard or driveway. Thanks!

Park your vehicle on a level surface and put blocks of wood or bricks behind the rear tires.

Jack the front of the vehicle up enough for you to get under it.

Be SURE to put jacks stands under the body (behind the front wheels) or put some timbers under the tires and let the weight off the jack.

Put a piece of cardboard, or an old blanket, underneath the vehicle to lie down on (I hate working on the *ground*). ?º

Get a pail or pan that will hold at least 6 or 7 quarts of liquid to drain the oil into.

It's a mess having a pan that holds 4 quarts and letting 5 quarts of old oil running into it! ?¼

You will need a wrench to remove the oil pan drain plug. PLEASE, don't use one of those "adjustable" things. All they do is "round" the shoulders on the plug. Get the proper tool.

You need a filter wrench that will fit your oil filter.

Be sure the engine has had time to cool down. Hot oil will burn you, and burn you, and keep on burning you! ?¼

Now, the best way to go about this is to see where the oil filter is. If it will be just above you, leave it until last. Old oil will *drip* on you (yes!)

Put the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug and remove the plug, slowly. Once you have it loose, you can remove it with your fingers, it's easier.

After the oil stops running out of the oil pan, put the plug back in by hand. Don't force it, make sure you can twist it up easy, you don't want to "cross-thread" it (you would be looking for me then!).

Tighten it with the wrench. When you get it "snug", put a small amount of "pressure" on the wrench. Not too much, but we don't want it to leak, either!

Now, move the drain pan (slowly) under the oil filter.

Take the filter wrench and slip it over the oil filter, being sure you have the handle where it will tighten up on the filter when you pull the handle toward you.

Pull the filter wrench handle toward you. Sometimes this might take quite a lot of pressure. When the oil filter breaks loose you can remove the wrench and turn it with your hand.

Have on cloth gloves or use paper towels because oil will probably run down the side of the filter.

Continue to twist the filter off and put it into the drain pan.

Unless your oil filter is positioned upside-down, you want to pour fresh oil into it.

Be sure to put oil on the rubber gasket. That protects the seal and makes it easier to remove next time.

As you put the new filter onto the threaded spout, be VERY careful not to "cross-thread" it. If you can twist it easily, you're ok.

Once you get it snug, tighten it as much as you can with your hand (unless you're a football player).

Now, I usually take the filter wrench and turn it about an inch, or less. You don't want to get it too tight, it will squeeze the mating material and cause oil to seep from around it.

Now, jack the car up and take the supports out and let the vehicle down on its tires.

Raise the hood and remove the oil filler cap (the 710 if your cap is backward and has OIL written on it) ?º.

Most vehicles take 5 quarts (with filter) to refill them. Some take only 4.5 quarts.

I usually put in 4 quarts, crank the engine, check the oil pressure gauge, or light; check for leaks underneath the vehicle (plug/filter), then turn the engine off.

Let the vehicle set for about 15-20 minutes.

Pull the oil dipstick out and wipe it off. Replace it and pull it back out and look where the oil level is.

If it's just a quarter to a half inch from the "Full" mark, I'll add only a half-quart of oil, then check it again.

You will need to take the old oil and filter to a repair shop or a disposal location to discard it.

PLEASE, don't pour it out on the ground! EPA!!! Remember, I TOLD you so! ?º

So, you don't have to wait in line at the *quick* places to get your oil changed anymore! Never, ever, again.

Tommy Sessions has been in auto repair since 1970. He publishes Auto Repair Answers Newsletter so you can learn how to keep your vehicle looking new, running safely and efficiently, while you save money and time...also, learn how to avoid shop rip offs. Don't be at the mercy of the dealerships and auto repair shops...they will have more respect for you.
http://www.auto-repair-answers.com

How to Change the Oil in Your Used Car

When you buy a used car, you often may not bother learning how to change the oil in your used car, assuming that used car dealers have already performed that maintenance. While in most cases this may be true, it’s not always the case.

Learning How to Change the Oil in Your Used Car

After purchasing a used car from a used car dealer, many people just start driving it without bothering to perform any sort of maintenance to it. However, by following this simple guide, you'll be able to insure that the life of the engine in the used car you just purchases is extended to its maximum. Oil is the lifeblood of your car, and it is critical to protect moving parts within the engine from friction and heat. This guide will walk you through the process of changing your own oil

Things You Will Need

The basic tools you need include the following:

• A jack and safe jack stand
• Front tire ramps instead of a jack (make sure to block the rear tires!)
• A clean plastic funnel with a screen
• Oil (check what the owner’s manual recommends for the current season)
• New oil filter (ask your auto parts store for the filter for your car)
• Oil filter wrench (ask at the auto part store if you don’t know what it is)
• A plastic container, like a small square tub people use to do dishes
• Plenty of old rags
• A ratchet and socket set

Preparation

Before you change the oil (easily a 15 minute job), you want to make sure that you have everything ready in order to make the task as easy as possible. Run the car for about five minutes to warm up the oil, this will help the oil drain more easily and thoroughly. Pop the hood and open the oil filler cap at the top of the engine (it’s marked with the picture of an oil can dripping with oil). Removing this cap will also help the oil to flow more easily.

Set up the ramps in front of each wheel and drive the car carefully to the top, or if you prefer using a jack, carefully set the jack and the jack block under the car frame and jack up the front of the car just enough so you can easily get under it. Regardless which method you use to lift up the front of the car, always block both rear wheels with a block of wood before you ever get under the car.

Procedure

1. Place a towel under the front of the car to keep yourself as clean as possible, and place all of the equipment as nearby as possible. Place the square tub directly under the drain plug that’s located on the bottom of the oil pan. This is very easy to find, it’s a large flat metal cover located toward the back of the engine.
2. The drain plug is simply a bolt with a head that you can slide a ratchet or socket onto in order to unscrew it. Find the right size socket that matches the head, and make sure to unscrew counter-clockwise. As you unscrew the plug, make sure to only use the socket to loosen it. Then continue to unscrew it with your fingers.
3. As you unscrew the plug with your fingers, as it’s just about to come loose, oil may start leaking out of the sides and onto your hand. You can continue unscrewing it the rest of the way and removing it, allowing the oil to flow into the bucket – or you can do like most people and just drop the plug, letting it fall into the tub full of oil. A more clean approach is to hold the screened funnel under the plug, allowing it to drop into the funnel, but the plug won’t fall into the tub. You can then remove the funnel from the oil stream.
4. Have a look at the filter you purchased for your car. The one that you need to remove (that’s currently attached to your engine) should look a lot like it. Use a flashlight if you have to, but search carefully along the front, back, or sides of the engine for where the circular air filter is screwed in. When you find it, try to turn it counterclockwise by hand. If it’s too tight, wrap the loop of the oil filter wrench around the filter body, tighten it, and then turn. When the filter comes loose, make sure that the rubber gasket ring is attached to the filter. If it stays on the engine, make sure to take it off with your fingers. The filter will likely have some oil in it, so dump it upside down into the tub of oil.
5. Finally, when the oil flow has stopped, carefully screw the oil plug back in, making sure the threads catch properly and it screws in firmly, but not too tight. Open one of the bottles of new oil and dip the tip of your finger in it. Rub the oil along the gasket ring and then place the rubber ring on top of your new filter. Finally, screw the new filter into the engine where the old one was located, just firmly enough, but not too tight, usually only ½ turn or so after the rubber gasket touches.

Give That Car a Drink

Using the funnel, empty the bottles of new oil to the engine. Add the number of quarts listed in the owner’s manual. Finally, replace the cap, remove all of your tools from under the car, then carefully lower the jack or remove the blocks and back the car off the ramps. Visit http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/Car_Care_Home.aspx to look up the oil recycling center nearest you.

For more information about quality used cars, including vehicle listings, vehicle information and even used car credit information, visit Harry Coker at www.blueskymotors.net.

About the Author

Ryan Dube is an Electrical Engineer with 15 years of experience in the IT industry. He has been freelance writing for over 10 years for publishers both online and offline and has covered topics including the paranormal, finance, relationships, and more. Read more at www.invisible-inc-writers.com

HELP! Gunk on my oil filler cap.?

Hi.
I have a 2001 Y reg 1.9tdi bamma and it runs perfectly and never misses a beat, but today I thought I would check the oil and saw that it could do with a top up. It was still between min and max but I thought I would top up anyway. When I opened the oil filler cap I noticed that there was a yellowish gunk on the cap. Now I know that this normally means that the head gasket is away but I always thought that if this was the case then it would use water but it doesn't use any water at all.

I'm not really sure what the best course of action is here so if anyone else has had this problem or if anyone can offer any advice it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks, Frazer.

If you are not losing coolant then the mayonnaise is down to condensation which is worse in the winter and when cars are not driven far or used for lots of short runs. It can also be a sign of a blocked breather somewhere but nothing to be concerned about.

1986 Toyota Corolla CS Hatch (AE80) from Australia and New Zealand - Comments
"Ever killed one of these? I almost have." What things have gone wrong with the car?

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