Polish Aluminum Rubber

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Polish Aluminum Rubber
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Having recently bought a sports car I have invested some time finding out how to get a professional "high gloss" wax finish to the bodywork. So here are my findings and observations which should help you to get the best results.

Firstly, polishing and waxing are two different things and they should not be confused.

Polishing is the process of attaining the best finish to the paintwork prior to waxing and it involves using a "polish" which is a mild abrasive intended to remove minor burs and blemishes.

Waxing is the application of a protective and shine enhancing finish coat.

So, here are the processes that I followed and which have got me some pretty good results. Always commence the cleaning, waxing and polishing activities from the roof down and do not wash, polish or wax the car in direct sunlight.

1. Use a hose pipe, pressure washer hose, or a few of buckets of clean water to remove any grit, dirt or potentially "scratch creating" debris from the car. Do not rub the car at this stage as the dirt will cause minor scratches.

2. Once all visible abrasive dirt is removed, use a proper car clean detergent (shampoo) mixed with water. This will not cause water marks and runs like "washing-up liquid" or household cleaners will. Apply the water/shampoo with a large sponge or mitt using the minimum amount of pressure required to remove any water stains or marks that remain.

3. Rinse the car thoroughly with clean water.

4. Dry the car using a chamois leather, or better still a noodle mitt (this absorbs more water). When you have finished, the car should be completely dry with no marks or water runs left on it.

5. At this stage you need to use a cotton cloth to buff the car and get it as shiny as possible. If there are any minor scratches or scuffs it may be possible to polish them out with an auto body polish. If this is the case, follow the instructions on the product container precisely and ensure that all residues of the polish have been removed when the "polish process" is complete.

The quality of your wax finish will be determined by how good a job you have made of the car cleaning process up to this stage, and it is the activities up to this point that require the greatest investment of time.

6.1 When the car is clean, dry and gleaming you can start to apply the wax. There are actually two types of wax, "real" wax and resin, and both should provide good results. (The resin is easier to apply and may last longer.)

6.2 The wax application should be a quick process. You start by adding a small quantity of wax or resin to a cotton cloth and then gently (with a minimum of pressure) apply it to the car. You can commence by using circular motions, but you MUST finish with straight motions, e.g. up and down the length of the hood, for best results.

6.3 Always work on a small area at one time and try to follow a logical pattern, e.g. starting with the roof, hood, trunk etc and working down and around.

6.4 Once you have finished and the wax/resin has dried (which should be very quickly), you take a clean cotton cloth and wipe off the residue. You will need to continually turn and shake the cloth to remove the fine residue powder. Once this is complete your car "should" have a showroom shine. Furthermore, repeating the wax application on a regular basis should build up the protection of your paintwork against air bound chemicals, ultra violet light and general dust and dirt.

Always follow the instructions for the specific product that you use and keep the wax/resin off rubber trims, alloy wheels, tyres and glass.

Author on a range of different and diverse subjects from orthopedic products to travel. http://www.rollergaragedoor.net

How to Clean Your Car’s Tires and Wheels

Beautiful, shiny wheels on a car are like the icing on a cake -- they have the ability to make your automobile look fabulous!

You may think that cleaning your car’s tires and wheels is too much of an effort for a small payoff, but you needn’t fear the process. The effort involved isn’t as great as you may think and the payoff is huge.

In order to do the most effective job, you should clean your tires and rims after you wash the rest of your car. Before you tackle your wheels, be sure to double check what kind of style you have: polished aluminum, or chrome.

Grab your hose, attach a sprayer, fill a bucket with soapy water and get a brush that is small enough to fit between any hard to reach areas your wheels may have.

After you remove any plastic cover or hubcap, take your hose and rinse the wheel thoroughly. Then grab that sponge and wash it well with your soapy water. Use the brush and a little elbow grease to remove any dirt that wasn’t removed when you used the sponge. You might even need a toothbrush to really get at the grime between the spokes.

If the dirt is particularly tenacious, use a strong degreaser you may also want to head to your local auto parts store or go online and order some cleanser/soap specially formulated for the oily, gritty dirt that makes its home on your cars wheels.

Spray the soap from the wheels. Wipe them dry and, if your wheels are made of aluminum or chrome, wipe on some wheel polish and then buff the polish off. Use a clockwise circular motion to put the wax on and use a counter-clockwise motion to buff it off. Again wipe on in a circular motion when you place it on; remove and buff with a soft cloth in the opposite direction.

When cleaning your tires, you don’t need to use soap and water; a degreaser will work just as well. Unless you went off roading and have mud caked on the wheels then you may use soap and water. To do this, take a good, strong brush to clean the dirt from the tire’s sidewalls, if necessary. Take your hose and spray clean water on the tires to remove the soapy water. A tire dressing will also be a good idea -- it helps keep the tire’s rubber in good shape and brings out a nice shiny finish.

About the Author

Sarah Gorren is the marketing manager for 3D Products, an international manufacturer of wheel and tire cleaners, as well as many other auto detailing chemicals. In addition to marketing 3D’s car care products, Sarah also oversees the auto detailing training courses offered by 3D Products.

Sig p220, Did I get a good deal?

Today I did something very unusual for me, I pounced on a gun and put it on layaway instead of purchasing it outright. It is a German made Sig p220 with a stainless steel slide and an aluminum frame, as well as hogue rubber grips, serial G137xxx. I agreed to a price of $450 after Texas sales tax and promptly put down the minimum 20% for layaway.

Here's my question: Was this as good a deal as I think it was?

The gun appears to have been police issued, or at least carried far more than it was shot. And by that I mean that the gun does show a significant ammount of holster wear, very similar looking to a tanline in the outline of the holster. However, since it's a stainless slide, I should be able to easily polish it up, right?
Also, I forgot to mention that it is chambered in .45 acp.

The internals that I could see without disassembling the gun were clean, did or look worn, and the barrel was shiny.

Not a bad deal, it just depends on how everything INSIDE the gun looks. If its had 10,000 rounds through it.... i would have shopped elsewhere.

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When we took our very first look at Skadoosh a couple of months ago, it was a substantially different product from the one that’s shipping: a little rough around the edges from pre-production manufacturing, the relatively small machined aluminum stand contained a novel plastic iPad holder that was capable of ratcheting to change the device’s viewing angle, and a metal flip-out kickstand that was ...

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