Pulley Kit Alternator

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Pulley Kit Alternator
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Vehicle charging systems haven't changed much over the last few decades. But with the increasing complexity of the modern automobile, along with the addition of many aftermarket accessories such as cell phones, DVD players, high-power audio systems, alarms etc., the role of the charging system is now more important than ever.

The charging system on your vehicle can be thought of as a small power plant which does exactly what its name implies - charges and maintains a good state of charge on the battery. The charging system will normally consist of two major components: An Alternator which actually supplies the necessary electrical current in order to charge the battery, and a Voltage Regulator. The latter insures that the system does not overcharge the battery, and that the correct system voltage is maintained. Most vehicles produced within the last 20-30 years use a voltage regulator which is an integral part of the alternator itself. This article assumes that your vehicle uses this type of alternator.

If your vehicle is showing symptoms such as dim lighting, "dragging" during engine starts, or frequent dead batteries, then the charging system may be at fault. Although it may seem obvious, the first item to test is the battery itself. A defective battery in an otherwise healthy electrical system can cause any of the above mentioned symptoms. Testing the battery is a simple procedure, and can performed quickly by most auto parts stores, repair shops, dealers, and even some large department stores. You can also perform the test yourself if you have access to a Battery Load Tester, a device which is made for the purpose. The load tester works by placing a specific amount of electrical load on the battery for a specific amount of time while monitoring the available battery voltage. The battery should be fully charged before the test in order to insure accurate test results.

Assuming that the battery is known to be good, then the next item to check is the battery terminals - the actual points at which the battery is connected into the electrical system. It is very important that these connections are clean and tight. This simple thing is often overlooked as a source of trouble, and is also a frequent cause of such trouble. Visually inspect the terminals, and clean and/or tighten them if needed. To clean, use a small, stiff wire brush or a terminal cleaner which is made for the purpose. You can buy these at nearly any auto supply store, and most hardware stores. You will also need an appropriate sized wrench with which to remove the battery terminals. Important: Always disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal first, and reconnect it last. This will help to keep from shorting the battery while connecting or disconnecting the terminals and possibly causing damage and/or personal injury.

If the battery terminals are clean and tight, then the next item to check is drive belt tension. If the belt which drives the alternator is too loose, then the alternator will not produce enough electrical current to keep up with demand. Many modern vehicles utilize a single belt which drives the alternator and other accessories. This system usually also has an automatic belt tensioner which always maintains correct tension and is not adjustable. If your vehicle uses a wide, multigrooved or so-called "Serpentine" belt to drive the alternator, then it likely also has an automatic tensioning device.

If your vehicle does not use an automatic tensioning device, then check belt tension as follows: With the engine turned off, grasp the belt at a convenient point about 8 to 10 inches from the alternator pulley. Move the belt slowly up and down. The belt should not move more than about 1/2 inch. If the belt seems to be excessively loose, then of course it will require tightening and/or replacement.

If belt tension is correct, then the next item to check is the alternator itself. You now have two choices - you can test the alternator yourself with a simple test using a voltmeter, or you can have the test performed by a professional. If you choose to do the test yourself, then you will need a DC voltmeter, or a multimeter. Such a unit can be purchased at most auto supply stores, hardware stores, department stores, home improvement stores, etc.

The test procedure is quite simple. Set the meter to read DC volts, and set the correct range if needed. Some meters will select the correct range automatically. Nearly all meters will come with instructions on how to set them to read DC volts. Next, connect the meter across the vehicle battery, positive (+) to positive (+) and negative (-) to negative (-).

With the engine running at a moderate idle - say 1200 to 1500 RPM, the meter should read approximately 13.8 to 14.8 volts and be steady. If the reading is substantially outside these figures and all other items mentioned have been tested and verified good, then the alternator is likely defective.

By having done the simple tests which are outlined in this article and further isolating the cause of your charging system trouble, you can often save money at the repair shop by specifying which part(s) need to be repaired or replaced.

For a lot more quality and useful car repair information visit the Auto Repair Guide website where you can find good information and resources to help you save money, make informed repair decisions, learn how to do your own repairs, and get the most from your vehicle.

Eldon Jarrard is a certified professional automotive technician who specializes in electrical repairs and driveability diagnostics. Eldon also has over 25 years of experience in the field.

Trucking Break Down Survival Kit

Any trucker will tell you, it’s no fun to be broke down on the side of the road. A road call from a truck shop service truck or a tow by a heavy wrecker can be extremely costly. A truck driver who knows his truck and carries the right supplies may keep a road side break down from turning into a massive road expense.

For a trucker who doesn’t know much about his engine, it’s a good idea to spend some time in the truck shop asking questions if the mechanic seems approachable. Some mechanic shops will run you out but many don’t mind questions so long as you’re trying to learn (as opposed to trying to tell the mechanic how to do his job). Even if you’re engine is under warranty, that warranty won’t do you much good on the side of the road- and any dealership that’s worth it’s salt will let you parts in later as warranty returns.

Knowing how to fix your truck won’t do you much good unless you carry the right parts with you. When you buy your spare parts, you’ll be dropping some cash at the parts counter. But you’ll more than make up for it when the inevitable break down comes. And Murphy’s Law dictates that break down will happen at 5 pm on a Friday when you’re in the middle of nowhere.

Some spare truck parts you’ll want to carry are:

* Serpentine belt, fan belt, etc. Carry a spare belt for every belt that’s on your engine. The belts are cheap, especially compared to a road call. Learn how the belt is run- when a belt comes off you probably won’t be able to see how it winds around the pulleys. You’ll need to know how to work the belt tensioner as well.

* Belt tensioner. If you have a spare belt but your belt tensioner is bad, you’ll be in the same spot as if you didn’t have a belt with you.

* Alternator and Pulley. When you buy a spare alternator, you’ll be paying extra to make up for the core charge. When you have your alternator replaced at a truck shop, you get a discount for the core charge. But when you are buying an alternator to keep as a spare, you’ll be paying extra unless you happen to have an alternator to turn in for the core. The core charge can be up to $200 depending on where you buy your alternator. If possible, buy a remanufactured (reman) alternator- this is an alternator that has been rebuilt. You’ll save a lot of money over buying a newly made one. You’ll need to have the pulley attached to the alternator- if you’re dropping the money on an alternator, most shops will put the pulley on for you free of charge- the pulley has to be torqued down to certain specs. Without the pulley, your alternator won’t do you any good.

* Air Compressor Governor. The governor tells the air compressor when to turn on and when to shut off. Your air compressor can go out, but it’s a lot more difficult to change out. If your governor goes out, however, it’s simple to change out. And without it, you’re air compressor is worthless.

* Tools. You don’t need to have a full set of Snap On tools- but a good set of tools, including a half inch drive ratchet, is a good idea. You’ll want a quality half inch drive socket set and a set of open-ended/box-ended wrenches. No offense to the truck stop brands, but you’ll probably want to buy your tools from a reputable hardware store. Cheap tools break.

Don’t forget to buy your spare parts in a state that allows truckers tax exempt status.

Having the right spare parts for your truck and knowing how to replace them saves truckers time and money. This is on open-ended subject. Comments about other spare parts or suggestions about the spare parts mentioned are welcome.

About the Author

www.coopsareopen.com is a website dedicated to improving the lives of truckers. www.coopsareopen.com provides weigh station information that matters to truckers.

Underdrive pulley set, do they work?

i've got a V8 ford thunderbird and im lookin to start fixing up the engine.
I figured ill start with baby steps so i found a kit of underdrive pulleys for my engine.
it says that they can improve horsepower by about 10-15 horsepower.

i guess my question is does this really work, and is it ganna affect my accesories???

the pulleys include new
-crankshaft pulley
-water pump pulley
-alternator pulley
-balancer/crank pulley

They cause all of the accessories to spin slower. In my opinion they are a waste of money. Ford engineers have already figured what the water pump, alternator, power steering, and A/C compressor should spin at. Spinning them slower will affect your alternator at an idle. The cooling system is questionable.

I think they are a waste. A good amount of work is involved to replace the pulleys and only for a couple of horse power. Leave the stockers on and spend your money elsewhere.

1993 Saturn SW Station wagon review from North America
What things have gone wrong with the car? We bought this station wagon twin cam Saturn in 2003. It had 93000 miles and had survived a serious t-bone accident. The car cost 900.00 instead of the 3500.00-4000.00 book value, due to the accident damage.

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