Rod Hugger Headers

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Rod Hugger Headers
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Clean, Painted, and Ready to go in. Now that everything is ready to go in, lets assemble our engine and trans.

Engine

Our Chevy 350 came complete from oil pan to carb and was even broken in. Distributor was also installed so we need to be careful not to hit the firewall when installing. Now is the time to install our block hugger headers and spark plugs. Wires can go on after the engine is in. We installed our flywheel with new grade 8 bolts.

Transmission

Our trans came with a 1500-1800 stall converter as this is destined to be a reliable daily driver, not a drag racing Hot Rod. We installed a new factory trans mount as it will work correctly with the new crossmember.

The marriage

We mated our engine and trans keeping in mind not to force anything. We put a bit of grease on the center of the torque converter to aid in installation. Prior to bolting trans to engine, make sure the torque converter spins free and is not bound up. Then bolt the trans to engine, and then torque converter to flywheel. In doing this, you will be assured that everything lines up correctly. Trans linkage will be hooked up later once drivetrain is bolted in.

In it goes

Be sure to reuse the engine leveler we used to remove the old engine. Especially now as everything is pretty and shiny. There is more than sufficient room and what a great final product it will be. Looks like a flathead lead sled, just isn't! Make sure to get all your bolts started before final tightening. Note: Make sure torque tube and drive shaft are removed prior to installing modern motor and trans. You will not have room and the new driveshaft is completely different.

The bolt-ons go on

Now we can install the bolt-ons. Starter can go in, front engine pulleys and belts, alternator, spark plug wires. There really isnt too much. Just remember, take your time, do it right, do it once, do it nice! At this point you need to figure out what to do with your cooling. We opted for a new aluminum radiator and a separate trans cooler. Our new aluminum radiator has the correct inlet and outlet necks in the correct Chevy locations.

Gas and Go

Gas pedal linkage is an upgrade to Lokar. It is a universal fit and works well. Same with the shifter. Since it is an automatic, we floor mounted the shifter and even used his shifter knob off of the old three speed to give it the original look. The kickdown cable is attached to the carb via a universal mount kit.

Next time: We prepare for wiring and rear end.

Started by Art Tupaczewski, his experience in the auto body industry lead him to devise a way to find that "specialty part" for your car quickly, easily, and cost effectively. Whether just starting out, or a seasoned veteran, http://www.ratrodauthority.com has what you need.

After analyzing the marketplace, Art figured out an efficient way to get what you need fast and correct from the comfort of your own home. His website is the most user friendly and is designed to tell you exactly what you need to know so you can get back to your project. No guesswork and up to the date products allow you to move at a rapid rate and checkout quickly.

Come visit us at http://www.ratrodauthority.com for ideas, parts, vehicles and anything to do with Rat Rods, Muscle Cars, and Hot Rods.

1939 Ford Four Door Deluxe Project Part 3

Now that everything is ready to go in, lets assemble our engine and trans.

Engine

Our Chevy 350 came complete from oil pan to carb and was even broken in. Distributor was also installed so we need to be careful not to hit the firewall when installing. Now is the time to install our block hugger headers and spark plugs. Wires can go on after the engine is in. We installed our flywheel with new grade 8 bolts.

Transmission

Our trans came with a 1500-1800 stall converter as this is destined to be a reliable daily driver, not a drag racing Hot Rod. We installed a new factory trans mount as it will work correctly with the new crossmember.

The marriage

We mated our engine and trans keeping in mind not to force anything. We put a bit of grease on the center of the torque converter to aid in installation. Prior to bolting trans to engine, make sure the torque converter spins free and is not bound up. Then bolt the trans to engine, and then torque converter to flywheel. In doing this, you will be assured that everything lines up correctly. Trans linkage will be hooked up later once drivetrain is bolted in.

In it goes

Be sure to reuse the engine leveler we used to remove the old engine. Especially now as everything is pretty and shiny. There is more than sufficient room and what a great final product it will be. Looks like a flathead lead sled, just isnt! Make sure to get all your bolts started before final tightening. Note: Make sure torque tube and drive shaft are removed prior to installing modern motor and trans. You will not have room and the new driveshaft is completely different.

The bolt-ons go on

Now we can install the bolt-ons. Starter can go in, front engine pulleys and belts, alternator, spark plug wires. There really isnt too much. Just remember, take your time, do it right, do it once, do it nice! At this point you need to figure out what to do with your cooling. We opted for a new aluminum radiator and a separate trans cooler. Our new aluminum radiator has the correct inlet and outlet necks in the correct Chevy locations.

Gas and Go

Gas pedal linkage is an upgrade to Lokar. It is a universal fit and works well. Same with the shifter. Since it is an automatic, we floor mounted the shifter and even used his shifter knob off of the old three speed to give it the original look. The kickdown cable is attached to the carb via a universal mount kit.

Next time: We prepare for wiring and rear end

Come visit us at http://www.ratrodauthority.com.com for ideas, parts, vehicles and anything to do with Rat Rods, Muscle Cars, and Hot Rods.

About the Author

Started by Art Tupaczewski, his experience in the auto body industry lead him to devise a way to find
that "specialty part" for your car quickly, easily, and cost effectively. Whether just starting
out, or a seasoned veteran, http://www.ratrodauthority.com has what you need.

After analyzing the marketplace, Art figured out an efficient way to get what you need fast and correct
from the comfort of your own home. His website is the most user friendly and is designed to tell you exactly
what you need to know so you can get back to your project. No guesswork and up to the date
products allow you to move at a rapid rate and checkout quickly.

Whether its an exhaust for your lead sled, wheels for your jalopy, or tires for your Chevelle or Camaro,
you can rest assured knowing that you found the only place to shop for your car.

So always remember, from rust buckets to hot rods, the rat rod authority is available 24 hours a day, 7

I have a 90 model cadillac fleetwood brougham, wanting to put headers on it. They do not made headers....?

for the old caddy. Mines not a pimp ride it is a becoming a "hot rod" so you pimp haters don't think thats the case. Anyways the caddy has the exact same engine as a corvette only it's titled L1G rather than LT1. I was curious since my car hasn't the ground clearance if I may get a corvette set of hugger headers that might bolt up without a lot of modification? Anyone that can answer this I have a few more questions for you so it is greatly appreciated thanks.

I wasn't thinking pimp ride, more of a handling turd.
Sorry to say there probably hasn't been to many requests for headers on a Brougham. You may check with some hot rodders and wind up with vette headers modified buy a welder. That's the way we did it 30 years ago.

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