Rod Main Cam

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Am I fishing deep enough? How much line do I need to let out to get my lure to 30 feet? If you have been asking yourself these questions, then a downrigger might be the next best thing on your fishing boat. Downriggers are a simple tool designed to lower a weight attached to a braided wire to a desired depth where a lure can be attached. The downrigger will either have an electronic display or a counter to show the amount of line released from the spool. This will provide a consistent depth for trolling. A downrigger release is then hooked to the weight or braided wire so that the fishing line can be attached. Once a fish strikes the lure, the downrigger release lets go of the line and you are able to bring in the fish free of the downrigger weight. The lure can easily be lowered and raised repeatedly for fishing at consistent depths....where the fish are!

Downriggers come in two different styles. Electric downriggers provide faster lowering and retrieving of your weight (which can be essential when on a hot spot). Manual downriggers are easy to use and reliable like their counterparts (electric). However, for a long fishing day and deep fishing depths, repeated raising and lowering of the weight could be cumbersome. For deep water fishing and need for quick lowering and rising of your downrigger lines, electric downriggers may be the choice for you. There are many downrigger brands available on the market. Quality downriggers can be found by searching for Cannon, Big Jon, or Scotty downriggers.

Additional downrigger accessories can be essential for catching fish. Temperature and speed controls can be a huge advantage while downrigger fishing (but can be costly). A nice additional accessory is a downrigger camera. This can be helpful in watching lure action as well as the fish. The fish may be watching your lures but not striking... a camera could be the difference in catching your next fish.

The other essential components for downrigger fishing are the downrigger weight (cannonballs) and line releases. There are many options available and trial and error will help determine what is right for you and your local fishing habits. That being said, weights with adjustable fins can be helpful in keeping lines from tangles. When correctly tuned, they can spread you lures maintaining tangle free presentations. Downrigger weights come in many shapes and colors. It is important to find a weight that tracks well and has the color that works best for your fishing preference. Colors and the weight itself can vary depending on your fishing needs. Traditional downrigger weights are dark (black) with some sort of flashy tape attached mimicking a fish. Common downrigger weights come in 6, 8, 10, 12, and even 14 pounds. Heavier weights enable trolling more consistently at deeper depths and faster speeds without having the weight track further behind the boat.

Line releases are very important when downrigger fishing. Think of the scenario when everything is set up for fishing. A big fish hits and the release doesn't let go. You are now stuck with a fish attached to a release with a 10 pound downrigger weight and 50 foot of downrigger wire. Or worse yet, the line snaps. More than likely, you can kiss that fish good-bye. Downrigger releases are designed to hold the line at the downrigger cable long enough to hook the fish yet release after the initial hit so that the angler can bring in the fish. There are two main types of releases. Pinch pad releases, like those made by Scotty and Cannon, pinch the line between two pads. Mechanical releases, like those made by Big Jon, have mechanical parts that provide a release mechanism for releasing the line when a fish hits. Many mechanical releases provide tension screws or mechanical dials to allow for varying tension on lines. This allows anglers to adjust release tension depending on fishing conditions.

No matter what downrigger you choose, mechanical or electric, your fishing experience will be enhanced. Downriggers allow you to take your lures or bait to the depth of the fish over and over again with precision. Determining your accessories can be challenging and asking the guides or charters for assistance can be the difference between a few fish and many fish. You may want to go out on a charter to see how the experts do it before getting your own set-up. Good luck and go fishing......

Joel Rice is a fishing enthusiast who provides information for beginning anglers. Many hours of fishing Lake Erie have provided the basis for information on downriggers and downrigger accessories

For information about downriggers and accessories, please visit TheDownrigger.com

For questions, please E-mail Me!

Preparing For Your MOT Test

Typically most cars will need to be checked every year to ensure that they are safe to be driven on the road. This includes emissions, controls and the health of the car in general. The test is known as the Ministry Of Transport test (MOT).

An MOT is similar to when you go to the doctor for a general check up. This check-up though is mandatory and if you do not have a valid certificate to prove your car has passed the required standards then you will not be able to get a tax disc and so will not be able to legally drive on UK roads.

For many older or poorly maintained cars you may find that they fail their MOT and will cost money for necessary repairs. In some cases the vehicle may fail due to an issue which may have been avoided if the driver had been more attentive or careful when driving. A few little maintenance jobs here and there over the year will help to make sure your car is in top condition when it comes time to get the car tested.

One of the main points that can help your car stay healthy is driving sensibly and not over-revving the engine. Accelerating or braking harshly can put strain on the brakes and make them more likely to fail as well as the engine being put under unnecessary stress.

To reduce any engine problems it’s important to make sure your coolant and oil levels are filled to recommended levels. Engines that are low on oil are vulnerable to severe engine damage. You can avoid expensive repairs to rod bearings and the cam shaft by making sure your oil level falls within the recommended levels on the engine’s dipstick.

Keeping a close eye on the tyres is another area which may help to reduce the risk of failing your MOT. Increased tyre baldness, where there is little or no tread, means that your tyres will have lower than desirable levels of grip, especially in the wet. You can help to increase the lifetime of your tyres by not wheel-spinning and ensuring your tyres are inflated to the right level as stated in your vehicle’s manual.

Another key area that cars sometimes fail their annual checks is to do with the suspension. The springs and mounts for your suspension can grow slacker over time, having a look under your car to check that nothing is obviously out of place is a good initial check. Also a small test you can do yourself is by pushing down on the corners of the vehicle and checking that the car springs up instantly, if it bounces a few times before coming to a rest then there may be issues with your suspension that need looking at by a mechanic.

Exhausts are another common area cars can fail on, this is mostly checked by the sound of the car. If you have noticed the car has gotten louder over time then there may be a hole in the welds on the exhaust system. This happens a lot with cars over 10 years old. Over time through rust, damage and general wear and tear, these holes can appear and grow causing a leak of emissions.

There are many check-ups and tests you can do yourself in the run up to your MOT test. By doing this you will be able to find the areas of your car which may need repairs and you will be able to budget for any necessary repairs. If your car were to fail then you typically have one day or for some garages/service centres a few more to get your car fixed up and then re-tested.

Some service centres charge for re-tests so make sure you find a reputable mechanic who offers free re-tests when looking for a MOT service centre.

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I just had a 350 Chevy 4-bolt fully machined. How does this affect me ordering parts?

I just had a 350 Chevy four bolt (3970010 casting) fully machined. What I mean by that is cylinders bored, the block decked, and align bored the mains. I am using %100 percent new components. New crank, connecting rods, pistons, cam & lifters, timing set, and pushrods. I will be using stock 2.02" heads with a stock valvetrain. Now here are my questions:

Main bearings - Do I need to plastigage to determine the required bearings or can I simply go off of what the machine shop removed during the align bore?

Pushrods - Can I determine which pushrod length to order by by providing the cam and valvetrain as well as the new deck height to my parts guy or do I need to by checking pushrods first before ordering the pushrods?

Timing set - I want to use a Pete Jackson gear drive in my setup. Does the fact that I had the block decked eliminate this possibility and do I have to order a custom timing set? I know you can get these from Cloyes.

Before the machine shop does the line bore, they skim the caps, therefore after the line bore, the tunnel sizes are original. So your new main bearings need to match the new crank which should also be standard. It's a good idea to use plastigage as a bearing clearance check just to be sure.

The supplier should be able to provide the correct push rods with this information - advise them whether you are using hydraulic or solid lifters.

The decking of the block doesn't affect the timing gears so you can use Pete Jackson gears, however they are usually very noisy. If you want a quiet running engine, stay with a good timing chain and sprockets.

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