Seals Teflon Racing

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The subject of this article, brake fluid, is not as sorely neglected as differential gear oil or power steering fluid. Brakes will eventually command the attention of even the most inattentive owner. But we should be paying attention to our brake system long before it screams at us.

Mercedes is one of the few car manufacturers to prescribe a service interval for brake fluid -- two years. And there are very good reasons for this. First, brake fluid is highly hygroscopic, readily absorbing water vapor from the atmosphere. If you leave a container of brake fluid open overnight, it will be fatally compromised by the next day. Water in the fluid can boil and vaporize when the brakes are applied, preventing the transmission of pressure from the master cylinder to the caliper. The seriousness of that safety hazard need not be stated. Water also causes corrosion within the brake system. Finally, the fluid within the caliper is subjected to very high temperatures and degrades over time. The fluid in the reservoir might look alright, but there is no recirculation of fluid in this system to provide a visual cue to intervene.

If you live in a humid climate, Mercedes' prescription may actually not be strong enough. It may be necessary to change the fluid every year. And it is best to do this in the driest part of the year. For most people, the job is best done in the spring, but in swampy Central Florida, for example, the best time to work on brakes is the winter, which is the dry season. Regardless, regular work on the brakes provides more opportunities to inspect the condition of the pads, rotors, and flexible brake lines. The opening and closing of the bleeder screws prevents them from becoming frozen in place by rust. And your caliper seals with love you for it.

While some still swear by the traditional, two-man brake-bleeding procedure, power bleeders are wonderfully effective and make brake bleeding a simple, one-man operation. Power bleeders eliminate the need to constantly monitor the fluid level in the reservoir, thereby reducing the risk of air entering the system and requiring us to start all over again. And they have been demonstrated to reduce the risk of damage to the master cylinder during traditional bleeding.

The standard advice to start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder holds true. In fact, that right rear caliper seems to be by far the hardest to bleed completely. It is imperative to keep going until the fluid leaving the caliper is completely clean and free of bubbles. A small amount of Teflon tape wrapped around the threads of the bleeder screw can safeguard against any tendency for false air to be sucked in at that point. While such air does not remain in the caliper to cause operational problems, it does make it difficult to tell when the brakes have been bled successfully.

DOT 4 fluid should be used in Mercedes brake systems. If all you can get is DOT 3, that is not the end of the world: it will not harm the system in any way; it simply has a lower boiling point. Whatever you do, do not use DOT 5 brake fluid; this is designed solely for racing applications and does not belong in road vehicles.

Following these maintenance practices will help keep your 126 running trouble-free for many years. Always remember that this is a car designed for decades of service. We are not dealing with "planned obsolescence" here! We inhabit a different automotive universe and we follow a different set of rules.

For more Mercedes 126 repair information, click here: Mercedes 126 repair.

And for an interesting look at general driving issues, including speeding ticket tips and ways to avoid traffic cameras, click here: traffic ticket. Look for the page on "traffic videos" if you need a laugh!

Hobie 16 - china Slurry Pump EMM - Slurry Pump EGM manufacturer

Structure A de-rigged Hobie 16 The Hobie 16 is manufactured in France by the Hobie Cat company, and by the Hobie Cat of America company in the United States. Historically the French boats are preferred as they are perceived to be built to tighter tolerances.[citation needed] The Hobie 16 normally carries two sails, the mainsail and the jib. There is a kit to allow an H16 to fly a spinnaker but this is not class legal for racing. Each hull has two pylons (the forward ones are vented to allow the pressure inside the hull to equalise) and the frame fits onto these pylons.

The frame consists of four aluminium alloy beams which slot into four aluminium alloy corner castings and are secured with rivets. The trampoline slots along the inside of the beams and is tensioned by rope or shock cord. Racers commonly epoxy the beams into the castings to boost rigidity because the flexing of the boat as it rides over waves saps power.

Earlier masts were one-piece aluminium alloy, but were changed to two-piece ones with a non-conductive composite fiberglass tip (known as "comptip") not for performance reasons, but after a few people in the United States of America were electrocuted trying to raise masts under power lines and their families sued Hobie Cat.[citation needed] The mast foot casting forms a ball which steps into cup-shaped shoe riveted onto the forward crossmember and there is a Teflon disk separating the two. The downward compressive force from the mast is partially carried by the crossmember and partially by a stainless steel compression post and tensioned tie rod assembly called a "dolphin striker". The H16 has two trapeze wires either side to allow both the helm and crew to trapeze. "Cat seats" can be fitted to allow disabled sailors to sail the H16 without too much penalty. The rudder assembly consist of a rudder on each hull fitted to a (Hobie patented) automatically releasing stock comprising a casting, a cam and spring-loaded plunger, so that the rudders spring up when they hit ground to avoid damage. The system can be troublesome until the correct tension is set on the spring.

The rudders are connected to two short tillers which are in turn attached via a ball and socket joint to a connecting rod called the tiller bar. The tiller attaches to the centre of the tiller bar and is typically extendable for operation while trapezing. The mainsheet has a maximum of a 6:1 purchase and has a traveller that allows movement over the entire aft crossmember of the frame. The jib sheets are of a 2:1 purchase and attach on the front beams with their own two travellers. The boat has a 3:1 purchase downhaul (upgradable to 6:1) to tension the mainsail and an outhaul (standard 1:1, upgradable to 2:1) to flatten the mainsail along the boom. Both the mainsail and jib are fully battened. Tuning In most situations, the H16 mast is raked back as far as possible. You are limited by the distance between the boom and the rear crossmember and the distance between the clew of the jib and the jibsheet blocks. The cut of the jib was changed (date?) to allow further rake and low profile jib and mainsheet blocks are essential. For maximum speed, the windward hull should be flying and skipping along the surface of the water. H16s do not beat particularly well, nor do they sail directly downwind particularly well.

They, however, are proficient at reaching, so if in doubt, sailors are encouraged to sail at more reaching angles. H16s at speed in choppy waters are prone to "pitch-pole". This is where the leeward bow digs into the back of a wave and if the main is not de-powered immediately and the crew's weight isn't back far enough, the boat is liable to trip over head over heels. Righting When an H16 capsizes, it will normally lie on its side as the mast is sealed and positively buoyant. It is imperative that at least one of the crew immediately gets onto the righting line to prevent the boat turtling completely upside down as it is far more difficult to recover from that position. With all sheets released, the crew stand on the lower hull. The bows of the boat should be pointing into the wind and the crew can facilitate this by shifting their weight forwards along the hull which will allow the wind to push on the trampoline and 'windvane' the boat head to wind. Both crew then lean back on the righting line ready to grab the bottom of the boat as it comes up to prevent it from capsizing to the other side.

It is far more difficult for one person to right an H16 without using additional equipment such as a righting bag or some device to slacken the shrouds. Specifications Length 5.05m (16' 7") Beam 2.41m (7' 11") Mast Length 8.08m (26' 6") Weight: 145Kg (320lb) Maximum Load: 362Kg (800lb) Mainsail area 13.77m (148.22 ft) Jib area 5.12m (55.11 ft) Spinnaker area (optional) 15m (161.5 ft) Racing Crew 2 EC homologation category C See also Hobart "Hobie" Alter company founder and creator of the Hobie Cat Hobie Cat References ^ http://www.sailamerica.com/halloffame/hobie16.asp External links HobieCat Company's Hobie16 page Categories: Multihulls | DinghiesHidden categories: All articles with unsourced statements | Articles with unsourced statements from June 2007 | Articles with unsourced statements from August 2007

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c4 to race?

I have a c4 from a 60s mustang and I want to make it pretty much this http://www.dynamicracingtrans.com/fordtranny.htm race trans. from dynamic. now I've found from them this rebuild kit for $225 that comes with "All your gaskets, seals, Teflon Rings for the pump, Kolene heat-treated steels for Direct (6-clutch Power pack w/Red Eagle friction), 5 steels and BW friction for Forward,extra wide babbit bushings for pump and ext. housing, Kevlar Int. band- everything we use to do a full freshen up on a Mighty Mite." now I know I need to buy a torque convertor from them and the bellhousing but is there anything else I need from them to do this rebuild or can I use stock pump and just a manual valve body? and what about gears? do they just use factory gears?

have you ever ask to yourself why nascar cars for example DONT use automatic transmitions?

there is no point to get an auto trans for racing....

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