Turbo Cylinder Head

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Turbo Cylinder Head
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The high performance aftermarket world I must say has come a long way in producing some excellent parts that the average hot rodder has easy access to. A simple point and click from your home computer and you can have the latest in high performance parts delivered to your door in a matter of days. Most of these fine parts you are able to bolt on with little or no modifications.

But as I sit in my garage and look at the beautiful 523 cubic inch engine I recently built for my drag boat I think to myself what really has changed? It's pretty much the same as every other engine I've built in my life, block, crank, rods, pistons, heads, valvetrain, intake system, etc. The basic concept of the internal combustion engine remains the same. So my question to myself is what has changed?  Today's high performance and racing engines produce much more power than they did even ten years ago, so again, what has changed?  The answer I came up with is simple- air flow. Although the concept has never changed, the more air you can get into the cylinders the more power you will produce. What is the path the air needs to take to make it to the cylinders to be combusted? It travels and is distributed through the cylinder heads. Cylinder head air flow is, and in my opinion, will always be the major factor in producing more power in the internal combustion engine whether it be through larger camshafts, bigger valves, larger cubic inches, ( which seems to be the case nowadays) or bigger superchargers, it still comes down to airflow.

Like I stated in the beginning of this article the aftermarket manufacturers are producing parts that are stronger and more reliable but the cylinder heads they are producing is what makes the power. That's not to say you can't take a stock set of heads and make them better because that is a low cost option that will likely give you the greatest gains per dollar spent and can also be fun and rewarding when done yourself. Even some "as cast" aftermarket heads have room for improvement with some port matching, smoothing of the ports, proper shaping of the guide boss and blending of the bowel area you will see some power gains.

If you have never done any porting work before I suggest you find yourself a junk head to practice on first and get the feel of things and then move on to the heads you intend on using.

Remember bigger is not always better when it comes to cylinder heads.  It's all about proper shape and velocity.

It's also important to know your intended use, street, street rod, drag race, rpm range, etc. so you can choose the right cylinder heads or modifications needed for your application. Just having your heads ported or choosing the heads with the biggest ports doesn't mean you'll make more or the most power from your engine.  Answering these questions first will help you determine optimum port size and air flow requirements.  It's also a good idea to call the manufacturer and get their recommendations.

There's plenty to choose from out there, choosing the right parts is what's important. Good luck and have fun.

As a long time racer I've always done my own engine work and you can too.
For more information and ideas on engines and cylinder heads visit

http://www.squidoo.com/How-To-Port-Cylinder-Heads

Turbo Conversion

It is common sense that a stock car would eat dust in a racing circuit against cars which were finely upgraded. This is also true in street racing. So, most people who enter street racing or circuit racing would give their care some level of turbo conversion. Because the price of full conversion is very high, there are ways to partially convert the car and there are available turbo kits.

There is a problem however in both cases, first the fact that a partially converted car is not recommended by anyone and people only do it out of desperation or experimentation. Then, those who converts cars for a living know that not all cars has the same process of conversion, they are usually custom made so bolt in turbo kits are not that hot either. The proper solution is to do a complete turbo conversion to avoid those problems. To properly convert the car would need part replacements and a good deal of car knowledge.

First of all, the car must have fuel injection system before the turbo conversion can take place. Fuel injection is important because the car would experience problems in driveability and would run the risk of seal failure and float failure. The next thing you would have to convert is the engine. Aspirated engines do not do well with the heat and the pressure which comes from a turbo charged car. This may cause more problems so some proper adjustments need to be made. The compression needs to be adjusted to a level that the engine would be able to handle easily. Somewhere around 8.0:1 would be good. Then replacing the piston and the rings is needed. Forged pistons are ideal for turbo conversion.

However, if that is not available or is too expensive, then the alternative for a forged piston is to use a turbo charged version of the piston from the manufacturer if there is an available one. Using Total-Seal rings would reduce the risk of blow by and would keep all the power of the cylinder. For the cylinder head then, stainless steel valves are ideal for durability and longer life span. If you cannot afford this one then there is an alternative by having the stock valve coated for heat protection. For a car that runs on pump gas, then it is important to install an ignition timing control. If you do not replace the normal aspirated ignition control then you can end up damaging the pistons and the rings even if you use the best of them.

Turbo conversion is a long, hard process of replacing parts, mixing and matching to attain the best boost possible with your car. Not to mention that it would be very expensive. An alternative is to purchase a turbo kit but that cannot guarantee the best result. Finding all the parts you may need is also a problem but the use of internet can help you find and analyze the best parts you can use for the turbo car you always dreamed of.

About the Author

Sam is the owner of Turbo Specialist Turborevs. You can find more information on Electric Supercharger and Dump Valves Turborevs website.

have a dodge caravan/replaced the head gasket,now it stumbles when i accelerate?

I replaced the head gasket and it seems to run fine but when i give it gas it stumbles and almost dies...did i miss a vaccume hose?If i SLOWLY press the gas it will rev ok till it gets to around 2500rpm...Also when i start it up it chugs for a second then clears up and runs good....its a 1989 2.5L turbo 4 cylinder
before the check engine light was NOT on...now its on and does not go off
tork speck says 35 then 44 then recheck for 44 lbs,then 1/4 turn....what is that supose to mean.I thought that was kinda loose so i torked to a even 55.Is that enought for a turbo ???

to find out what is wrong with it, turn the ignition on 3 times, on the 3rd time watch the check engine light flash, that will be your codes and you can find out whats wrong with your van. also you might want to check to see if you forgot to connect the EGR valve. i had the same problem, my van would chug a bit and then almost stall out until i replaced the EGR valve. if you have power brakes, also check the vacuum lines there as well.. thats a big leaker too.. anything that requires alot of vacuum whether it be a sensor or some other BS emissions, that will be your problem. hope this helped out!

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