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Underdrive Race Pulley
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 OBX UNDERDRIVE CRANK PULLEY 03-06 NEON SRT-4 SRT4 Blue  US $75.00
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 OBX UNDERDRIVE RACE CRANK PULLEY 03-05 NEON SRT4 SRT-4 US $75.00
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Have you ever wondered why a lot of people are getting away from building up naturally aspirated engines? Is there a better way than having to replace heads, cams shafts, intake manifolds and other expensive performance components to get big horsepower? I've built my share of fast cars over the years, one in particular was a mustang with a transplanted naturally aspirated big-block that made a solid 400 horsepower and got about 10 miles per gallon. I thought that car was the fastest thing around for a long time, until I was at a stoplight one day and a 94 small-block Camaro pulled up next to me. It really didn't sound like anything special, except it was making a slight howling noise from the exhaust, but I thought nothing of it. I really thought I was the king of the road, but was I in for a big surprise! The stoplight we were at seemed really long as I sat and shook and rattled as my killer big-block heated up more and more the longer we sat there.
The light turned green and I didn't really plan to race because I figured this boringly quiet Camaro wanted nothing to do with me. What happened next changed my opinion about superchargers forever! That Camaro took off so fast, before I knew we were racing he was already 5 car-lengths ahead, there was nothing I could do but wait and hopefully catch another light to try again. A few blocks later we caught a red light and I was ready to go this time! The light turned green and we were gone, this little small block killed me out of the hole and I couldn't catch him in any gear no matter what I did, he was winning, and winning big!! That seemingly stock Camaro kicked my rear end from start to finish!! After that embarrassment I had to stop this guy to find out his secret, and it was so simple it was sickening. All he had was a 350 with a forged crankshaft, rods and pistons with a set of rebuilt 202 camel hump heads and a very mild camshaft, oh ya he also had a Vortec centrifugal supercharger with a tiny overdrive pulley. To my surprise, that quiet little supercharged small block made well over 500 horsepower and he had far less money into his car than I did, I was sick to my stomach!
After that day I made the decision to sell my gas guzzling big block and buy a supercharger friendly short-block, with a set of basically stock heads, cam and a good aluminum intake. I decided to go with a inter-cooled Vortec centrifugal supercharger, I wanted to run the bigger under-drive pulley for normal driving, but i also purchased the smaller overdrive pulley with a flash tuner for when I wanted an extra 100 horsepower, I was hooked!! I never realized how bad I needed a supercharger until I had my pride handed to me by somebody that had one.
Going from the rough idling, gas guzzling big-block to the supercharged small-block was by far the best choice I made in a long time, the car didn't over-heat sitting at a light for too long anymore and had far better idle quality, not to mention it sure fooled a lot of people! In my opinion, forced induction is really the only way to go anymore with emissions standards the way they are, you get clean, reliable, comparatively cheap horsepower with very few problems. I give 2 thumbs up to forced induction for several reasons.
More Info on Vortec Supercharger. Also, Auto Supply Parts
Increase Racing Speed With Pulleys
You maybe have heard of an old trick in the world of automotive performance that uses special pulleys to somehow pick up more horsepower from an otherwise stock motor. This might seem a little too good to be true, but believe it or not, it actually it is a proven technique that you could apply to your engine in order to increase performance.
How does it work? Well, keep in mind that your engine is providing power to more than just the wheels of your car. For example, the alternator, the air conditioning compressor, and the power steering pump are all connected to the engine through a belt and pulley system. Each of those accessories has a small pulley that gets rotated by your serpentine belt that big belt located at the front of the engine. These pulleys take a small amount of horsepower from the engine in order to keep turning and working while you are driving. This is known as parasitic drag.
Now, normally this is not an issue. After all, the amount of energy it takes to turn two or three small pulleys is in the 5 to 7 horsepower range. No big deal, right? Well, when you are trying to squeeze every last drop of performance out of your engine, you should grab whatever you can. If this horsepower is there for the taking, why not take advantage?
The way to eliminate a substantial portion of this parasitic drag is to install special pulleys that take less energy to turn yet are still capable of running your accessories. These are called underdrive pulleys. The most obvious difference between an underdrive pulley and a standard pulley is that it has a smaller diameter. This makes it so that the pulley does not turn as fast as the stock pulley, meaning that less energy is used in the motion. More importantly, these pulleys are also much lighter than a stock pulley, and the reduced mass makes them far easier to rotate. It is this last feature which gives you the biggest performance gains. Usually you can access about 3 to 5 free horsepower with these devices.
I know what you are thinking if the pulleys are not spinning as fast as they used to, doesnt this mean that my accessories are not going to get the power that they need to work properly? Yes and no. It is usually safe to underdrive your accessories by about 20 percent. If you go below this point, you might start to notice issues like an alternator which does not generate enough electricity to keep the engine running, or a power steering pump that you have to fight against in order to turn the wheels.
These issues, when they appear, usually occur only at idle. This is why the 20 percent limit is recommended on a street car. If you are running primarily on the track, where you will see wide open throttle most of the time, then you can take the chance of running a more aggressive set of pulleys that will reduce parasitic drag by a greater amount.
About the Author
Justina Mathews writes issues that currently affect the performance car enthusiast. She also writes about issues that affect the street tuner industry, as well as import scene lifestyle. She's a staff writer for underdrive pulleys.
I have a 2002 mustang v6, with automatic transmission. I have made some mods and wonder how much HP i have?
I have a 2.5 (crush bend) true dual exhaust w/ x pipe and straight through flowmaster race mufflers... an ASP 25% underdrive pulley... MAC cold air intake.... and a diablo tuner. how much would you say I have at the fly wheel, and at the rear wheels?
And how is it you figured those numbers out, please!
the engine is completley stock and the transmission is a 4speed overdrive 4r70w
Was that any help?
The only way to get somewhat of a hp rating at the flywheel your going to have to put it on a dyno it will messure how much your making at the rear wheels and the caculate how much you have at the flywheel
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