Valve Seals Teflon

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Valve Seals Teflon
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Cooking And Cleaning In The Kitchen

It doesn't matter if you are fixing the sink in your kitchen or your bathroom, you can have an easy job of it or it can be a major headache. It all depends upon the valves and hoses that lead to the sink.

Most homeowners are capable of turning off the water valves under the sink with just a few turns. But if the valves are old, or if they have never been shut off since installation, turning them can cause them to break, and you will have a leak on your hands.

You can prepare for this by having someone stand by the main water turn off and turn off the whole house supply of water if you break off the valve under the sink.

In a development, this main shutoff is usually near the curb and has a lid with a small hole in it. The hole allows the water company representative to open the lid with a small metal rod.

In more rural areas, the main valve may be located in a well house or other exterior assembly. Make sure you locate the main shutoff before you get started on the job.

Clear your workspace and put down some towels and have a pan nearby.

Disconnect the connectors, which are small brass nuts or tin clamps, similar to the clamps that hold the radiator hos to the water pump and radiator in your car.

Look at all of the valves and hoses, and change the ones that look worn or have holes. It should be easy enough to do this if you have the replacement parts handy, and you have Teflon plumber's tape to fix them in place. Sometimes, however, things can go wrong.

If a valve or hose does not come out easily, you may have to use a hack saw to cut it off. Some older valves were welded on, and you should replace these with the threaded kind. Elva enough pipe to re thread, using a retreading tool. If all of this seems too much for you, you may want to hire a plumber.

Older valves and hoses may have several years worth of calcium carbonate deposit built up in them. It is a while chalky substance and when it hardens, it will cause things to stick together. You can usually loosen it with a few twists, but don't pull too hard. If you break a pipe, it will have to be resealed or replaced.

After you have removed the valves, clean them well with steel wool and then sandpaper.

Here is the easy part that can also be somewhat tricky. Wrap layers of plumbers tape to the trended and smooth surfaces where the valves and hoses are going to be replaced. Make sure you thread the tape in the direction in which the valve or hose is going to be turned. The idea is to tighten the tape when screwing on the valve on hose, not to loosen it. Screw on the valve, attach the hose and tighten the clamps without over tightening, just so they are snug.

Now turn the valve on slowly, watching for leaks. If the job has been done right, the threads that fit properly and the tape will make the seal tight and there should be no leaks.

You may have to try again if you do have leaks, but you will get the hang of it. If you didn't over tighten the valves, you should be able to undo the work easily. Redo it to make sure it is done correctly and you will not have to worry about it again for many years.

About the Author

Concentrating recent findings in cooking, Robert Carlton is writing at large for http://www.kitchen-cabinets-tips.com . You might discover his
contributions on kitchen sinks
over at http://www.kitchen-cabinets-tips.com .

been working on copper pipes plumbing?

Is there any thing better to seal threaded copper fitting to bronze valve other than teflon tape tried numerous times but still have a small drip at the joint

Bronze valve bodies are notorious for developing cracks. Inspect the body around the area where you thread in the copper fitting, look for a hairline crack. If you find one , sorry that valve is done. If no cracks are visible then make sure you use enough teflon tape, usually 4 wraps or so. Wrap a thread that turns clockwise the same way, so the tape doesn't bunch up as you turn it. Sometimes the use of a short brass nipple, and then a female threaded copper adaptor works better than a Male copper adaptor. If you use any type of thread sealant, and it is potable (drinking) water, make sure the sealant states it is OK for that purpose. Finally, in a real jamb you could substitute a little flux instead of thread sealant, and solder the copper thread right to the valve body. Of course this is now a soldered joint, not coming apart anymore.

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